Could this be the start of a 10-year project?

[Bernie]

I was reading Josh's post (http://www.naturalbushcraft.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?1492-A-10-Year-Project-My-Personal-Bushcraft-Knife) on his 10 year project to make a knife and fear I might be just starting mine now.

Last night, stressed to the hilt, I decided a bottle of wine and sitting at the fire was what I needed. So out I went, and this time I decided to throw the file in as well. If it didn't get hot enough well so be it. I was in a don't-care mood.

As it turns out, the fire was a lot hotter than I imagined. The file is no longer flat! I built up some coals under the file and then kept loading wood on top. I'm not sure how long it was burning for, but when I retrieved the file this morning it was no longer flat.

Some photos are in order I think. Click on a photo for a larger image.

Getting a bed of coals prepared:
https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1p2qmZK-wbv0in2mQkVZLuTdMhW34mgF7ZHCyDU0jEVnHgT7qI_UMevEVf UbwdSZdRvdj6nWjNYRyLtr4VOOnQnw/IMAG0547.jpg?psid=1 (https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=0543A98E13160818&id=543A98E13160818%212047&sc=documents#cid=0543A98E13160818&id=543A98E13160818%212052&sc=documents)

Some like it hot! :)
https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pO9JW9l0jqVDVKfnI1dz-QcF3Etj-1YGa6iPcZAXS-TwNjAaABGfqpDCkwqfAJLLolcCejLBsYod4EchEJcXIeA/IMAG0549.jpg?psid=1 (https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=0543A98E13160818&id=543A98E13160818%212047&sc=documents#cid=0543A98E13160818&id=543A98E13160818%212050&sc=documents)

As the evening turned to night, the file was getting pretty hot. Exposed it a little for this photo and then covered it again with embers.
https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pAZmpRkDTZ6sRxD1dKRlbLfqoLtmQv5ZxYFoz--Y7p_y1vvXDxbx0ESMa39TbzbxETLM95gQPJhO5hIQy1aGHYQ/IMAG0550.jpg?psid=1 (https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=0543A98E13160818&id=543A98E13160818%212047&sc=documents#cid=0543A98E13160818&id=543A98E13160818%212049&sc=documents)

A little out of shape the morning after, kinda like me :)
https://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pIg1JdfBNUoLfAMJatqeMh1Z8WDhSUiQ2HWBlL7cJ0_hJkXk dDNAozDvUp92Kc9hSaQGlb9RT6QnSSA4JxQ_pkg/IMAG0553.jpg?psid=1 (https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=0543A98E13160818&id=543A98E13160818%212047&sc=documents#cid=0543A98E13160818&id=543A98E13160818%212048&sc=documents)

I've tested the file with another file as per Green Pete's video and it's soft all the way along. Pity this weekend is already booked out with taking son to an astronomy show tomorrow, and then canoeing on Sunday (it's been too long since I got away from it all on the water).

But considering how long it's been since I bought these files (last Summer!) I'm in no mad rush to ruin it.

[Metal mug]

Well i'll be sure to look at this thread in ten years time. :)

[fish]

why will this take ten years? good start btw.

[DaveBr]

looking good so far, you could use 3 drill bits in a vice to reshape the file before you go any further

Dave

[Bernie]

I'm confused; how would I use the drill bits in a vice to shape it. I just can't imagine how that would work.

[andy202wr]

Masking tape 2 bits to the back jaw about 1/2" from the end and one on the front jaw in the middle, hold the file so the bend is facing towards you and the bend is at the single drill bit at the front, wind in the jaws so you bend the file just past straight and undo the jaws, if its not straight wind a little further. This is all presuming the file has been softened enogh. Hope this makes sence.

[andy202wr]

three pieces of tough stainless rod will do the job just as well.

[Adam Savage]

Looking forward to seeing the progress on this one Bernie.

[Bernie]

Very clever, I think I'll give that a go today. More photos later. Thanks for the advice and encouraging comments. :)

[Bernie]

Would you believe it, only four months later I finally cut the file down to size and shaped it:
2711

In a few more months I should have an edge on it, then next summer I can make a nice big :campfire: and get a bucket of old engine oil... :D

I'm thinking of doing a paracord handle because it's easier, quicker, and possibly more useful. There's plenty of thickness in the file still to provide a comfortable grip even when applying a lot of pressure:
2712

[jbrown14]

You're well on your way to beating my record, Bernie! :D

Looks great so far. That's one beefy blade!

I voted for a wood handle in your other thread by the way...

All the best!

Josh

[Bernie]

At long last some progress!!

3585

Not much, but I drilled some holes in it. I've decided to go with wood for the handle. I think my next step is to temper the knife (will check Green Pete's video in a minute to verify this). Since our cars are now all computer controlled, I can't service them myself so I've not got any old engine oil to hand. Does anyone know whether cooking oil works as well? Not sure SWIMBO will be too chuffed with me dunking my knife in the fat fryer though. :D

[CanadianMike]

Leave it to me almost a year later to see what this is all about, and lo & behold, it's about knife making!!!! DOH!!!!

Looks like a great start Bernie, so here's where you go. Make sure the edge isn't too thin right now, if it is, take some off otherwise it'll burn off and decarbonize the edge. Not sure what your heating means will be, let's say the fire stove you have there, get to the same degree of hotness with just as many coals, place the handle in there first (to HT it, but also to see how the heating process goes), and move it around every couple mins to avoid warping it all.

When you are used to the heating process and what you are using, pull the knife out, leave the handle hot, it'll cool by air and become tough (normalizing), put the blade in and heat to the right colour (red to dull orange). Keep moving it around in the coals (actually, instead of just wood, use charcoal) and make sure to get even colour all over the blade, have a pan/can whatever nearby of oil (answering your question, first dozen blades I made I quenched in old motor oil, past couple dozen I've been using a paint can of canola oil), newspaper/etc.

Pull the blade out, check it with a magnet all along the edge to make sure it's non-magnetic, if so, put back in the coals for another 30 seconds or so, then pull out and dip in the oil for about 1 sec, pull out for 1 sec, put back in, etc. Wear gloves, you may have a fireball erupt from the knife, you might not (I like the fireball, is fun to watch, but doesn't happen every time, maybe every 2-3 times I quench, I am disappointed if I don't get one). Do the dip and pull out maybe 3-4 times, and then stick the knife in the oil and move it around for about 20seconds. Pull it out, plop on the newspaper (to absorb the oil) and let it cool.

From there, dishsoap and hot water to remove the oil, heat up your kitchen stove/toaster oven to 375-400F, place blade in there and leave for an hour to temper (tempering is reducing heat treating hardness, a file is heat treated and quenched, but not tempered, is why it's so hard and will break.

Tempering at a lower temperature reduces stresses in the steel from HTing, and relaxes the blade to a lower hardness, making it tougher). Let it cool with the stove, and if you want, a second cycle.

From there, form your edge to remove the decarbonized layer of steel (iron plus carbon is steel, steel with iron removed is iron, therefore softer), add wood for a handle, etc.

Hope this helps!

[Adam Savage]

You make it sound so complicated lol, but totally agree. I use veg oil for mine now, but pretty much any oil works. The thinner the oil, the harder it'll be, but only +/- 0.5 HRC, or something.
Look forward to seeing the final blade :). great work so far Bernie T^

[paulthefish2009]

Good advice Mike,thats what i done to make my blade,sticking it in the oven to temper works great,Bernie i used some old 2 stroke oil i had hanging around,worked ok for me.

[CanadianMike]

You make it sound so complicated lol, but totally agree. I use veg oil for mine now, but pretty much any oil works. The thinner the oil, the harder it'll be, but only +/- 0.5 HRC, or something.
Look forward to seeing the final blade :). great work so far Bernie T^

What happens and why makes it sound difficult, doing it is stupid simple, is why it's my favourite part of making a knife, total 10 minutes or so from set up to heat to quench to wash to oven for temper. Maybe it's because my hands are free for the most part to enjoy my beer.....

[Adam Savage]

lol. I would agree, but I don't drink unless I'm in the woods lol.

[CanadianMike]

Asleep and at work (outside special occasions I mean, there are often retirement get togethers or after work chats and beer amongst a few), about the only times I don't enjoy my beer.

[Wood_Wose]

From there, form your edge to remove the decarbonized layer of steel (iron plus carbon is steel, steel with iron removed is iron, therefore softer), add wood for a handle, etc.

Hope this helps!


not being picky but im sure steel with iron removed would leave you a nice pile of carbon? :D has anyone found different results during the carburization process using charcoal, coal/coke?

[Bernie]

More progress: I managed to get the Chimenia up to heat with the help of a lot of oak floorboard offcuts and a little blowing down a copper pipe. I had a magnet on the ground that the knife picked up when it was cold, but would not pick up once it was very very hot. It wasn't cherry coloured, just a scary orange. Not sure I got it hot enough because although the magnet wasn't picked up, it didn't set the (unused) engine oil alight. It did bubble like it was boiling where the knife was though. I let it cool in the oil and then cleaned it up with some abrasive.

3820382138223823

Next I'll oven-treat it later this week or at the weekend.

[rossbird]

Really like the shape of your blade, Bernie.
Looks like it will be a workhorse.

[CanadianMike]

not being picky but im sure steel with iron removed would leave you a nice pile of carbon? :D has anyone found different results during the carburization process using charcoal, coal/coke?

Oops, just noticed my typo above, remove the carbon from steel and you get iron. Lol, but carbon burns off, leaving iron.

Knife is looking good Bernie!

[Adam Savage]

Sounds like you got it hot enough mate. As long as it's non magnetic, that's fine. Like Mike said before, the flare up doesn't always happen. :)
Scary orange sounds about right too :D

[Tony1948]

Bernie, If you PM me you'r address I'll send you some nice wood.

[m0txr]

That looks a great solid strong knife Bernie. Well done.

[Fletching]

Looking good there Bernie!

T^

Steve :)

[KaiTheIronHound]

Awesome mate, looking forward to seeing this one finished, she looks like a solid brute of a blade, just the way i like them! :D

[CanadianMike]

Need updated pics Bernie!!!!!

:D

[Bernie]

Sorry for the delay everyone, I'm just back from Belgium. I really need to get myself out there and crack on with the handle on this.

[Bernie]

Finally cooked the blade in the oven yesterday. I think the roast pork coloured the blade. :ashamed:

4495

I'm sitting here rubbing it with a tiny DMT diamond stone. The colouring was only on the surface. :)

My only concern is that the hardening might not have been as effective a I'd hoped. How can I test how hard the metal is? I guess the downside of a soft blade is just that I'll spend more time sharpening it than using it?

[Tony1948]

Nice blade Bernie,to test that it's hard enuff try to mark it with another file,if it marks it you'r blade is to softT^

[Bernie]

Nice blade Bernie,to test that it's hard enuff try to mark it with another file,if it marks it you'r blade is to softT^

Thanks Tony, I'll try that when I get home again (Wed/Thu). I have a feeling it's too soft. Do I just get it non-magnetic again and quench in oil again?

[AL...]

That blade is looking fantastic bernie Keep at it mate :)

Cheers
AL

[Tony1948]

I'm not shore,I'v never had one that has'ant been hard enuff,best ask crazysaint or Mike thatone they make more than me,atb with itT^

[CanadianMike]

This might help:

http://www.anvilfire.com/FAQ-article.php?bodyName=/FAQs/temper_colors_hardness.htm&titleName=Temper%20Colors%20and%20Steel%20Hardness %20:%20anvilfire.com

Straw colour is fine for tempering (the colouring is oxidization, shows you the heat the steel was subjected to), as Tony said check the edge with a file, but the best test is dragging the edge of the knife, at a shallow angle with light to moderate pressure, along a softer steel such as brass or die cast metal (I use the edge of my drill press for this, or the edge of my belt sander table). Have a light source set up so you can press enough on the corner and have a visible dimple rise on the edge, and slowly drag the edge along the length of it to see if it bends then returns to where it was, or if the edge rolls and stays. If it goes back to where it was before, is properly heat treated and tempered. If it chips, it's too hard. If the edge rolls a bit and stays, it's too soft.

I buggered a file knife I pounded out last year, was heat treated and quenched in water, decided to do some more work on it by reheating in my wood stove forge, quenched again and is cracked in three places. Asked on here for advice, Dave Budd was kind enough to give me a LENGTHY reply on how to do it right, heat to non-magnetic three times, in between heat cycles let air cool to the touch (normalizing they call it), on the fourth heat you quench it. Did it to a few knives since (luckily out of the 50odd knives I've made in the past year, only a couple needed to be redone), and found the edge bend trick to be superbly awesome! More to the point, when heat treating, carbon gets burned away, so leave about minimum 1mm worth of edge width on the blade before heat treating, then grind your final edge. If you find your edge rolls over, try grinding off half a millimeter from the edge, sharpen again, and see if the edge test passes. Might just be your before HT edge remained and you tried to sharpen it, but rolled over, good chance it was decarborized and easily fixed.

Sorry for the long windedness, beer took over, hope that helps though, falls in line with my experiences and they are valuable tricks of the trade.

[Adam Savage]

I couldn't have said it better than what has already been said. A straw colour is the usual after tempering for me too, so looks like all is fine. If it does need to be re-hardened, then Mike's description is the right way to do it. Sometimes you'll be able to get away with just heating and quenching, but files tend to have a higher carbon content than 0-1 tool steel, so it may crack (also as Mike says). Some files are case hardened, which means they have had extra carbon added to the surface, which penetrates about 1mm into the steel. This is what causes the cracks on repeated hardening, as there is less carbon in some places and more carbon in others, changing the properties of the steel in different areas. Put that together with heating and rapid cooling, and disaster often follows.

[Tony1948]

There you go Bernie I new them two good old boys would now wot to do :happy-clapping:cant beet a good blade smith,tryed and tested,and got the tee shirt.

[Bernie]

The good news: I tried to file the blade and it just slipped (wouldn't "bite" into the metal).

The bad news: I have no idea what CanadianMike is trying to say. I took my knife to my drill press and put the cutting edge on the edge of the table at an angle as if I were going to try shave the edge off, then pulled the blade backwards under some pressure. I didn't see any flex or impression on the blade. Bear in mind this is the heaviest knife blade I have ever seen (7mm thick!). And the edge goes from near zero (cutting edge) to that 7mm in just over 20mm.

I think it's hard enough and I've got a little patch on the back of my left hand now where the hair is missing, so I'm fairly happy that it takes an edge.

Now I need to:
1. Clean up the blade (still looks very home made)
2. Cut and glue wooden plates for the handle
3. Shape the handle, sand it until it fits like a glove, then oil, oil, oil.
4. Make a sheath. (I'm an absolute leather noob!)


Oh wait, there's a final step: Field test this baby! :D

[Adam Savage]

Definitely sounds hard enough. Depending on which adhesive you use to bond the scales/slabs to the steel handle, it may be better to use a beeswax or similar, rather than oil. Sometimes oils can dissolve adhesives, making for a weaker bond.

As for the leather sheath, follow this (http://www.beebeknives.com/html/make_a_sheath_tutorial.html) fantastic guide and you'll have a great looking sheath. The stamping/embossing is totally optional, so if you haven't got anything that will leave an interesting indentation, just leave that part out. A lot of sheaths look better for being simple...less is more :)

[CanadianMike]

There you go Bernie I new them two good old boys would now wot to do :happy-clapping:cant beet a good blade smith,tryed and tested,and got the tee shirt.

Speaking of T-shirts....... Lol

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/295281_283163251768211_117036668380871_604832_4768 5016_n.jpg

[CanadianMike]

The good news: I tried to file the blade and it just slipped (wouldn't "bite" into the metal).

The bad news: I have no idea what CanadianMike is trying to say. I took my knife to my drill press and put the cutting edge on the edge of the table at an angle as if I were going to try shave the edge off, then pulled the blade backwards under some pressure. I didn't see any flex or impression on the blade. Bear in mind this is the heaviest knife blade I have ever seen (7mm thick!). And the edge goes from near zero (cutting edge) to that 7mm in just over 20mm.

I think it's hard enough and I've got a little patch on the back of my left hand now where the hair is missing, so I'm fairly happy that it takes an edge.

Now I need to:
1. Clean up the blade (still looks very home made)
2. Cut and glue wooden plates for the handle
3. Shape the handle, sand it until it fits like a glove, then oil, oil, oil.
4. Make a sheath. (I'm an absolute leather noob!)


Oh wait, there's a final step: Field test this baby! :D

I learned about it from this book, I might not have explained it well, but there are three basic things that can happen with the edge, roll over and stays (too soft), deflects and returns to straight (proper hardness), and chips (too hard).

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?8919-Brass-Rod-Test

[Bernie]

I managed to squeeze some time in and cut two slices of Yew off a block I've had stored in my garage for a few years. I sanded the insides smooth, then drilled the holes and cut some 6mm dowel that I've had in the garage for probably over a decade now. :o

I came inside to mix up some Araldite, spread it on the handle and hammered (yes, hammered) the dowels in. The metal isn't perfectly flat, so I clamped the wood so that it would fit the metal well.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N27neaFJpok/T6eROsZHwgI/AAAAAAAABw8/t_fCEbFLRiM/s851/IMAG1316.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_F18tyeSq8s/T6eRPVi6pnI/AAAAAAAABxE/SxJfVS1biz4/s851/IMAG1317.jpg

Sure it looks a mess now, but I'm about to take it back to the garage for a little cleaning up now that the Araldite has dried. It might even start looking like a proper knife soon! :D

[Bernie]

I've been out, cut the excess off with a pull saw and then applied it to the 80-grit-gouge in my belt sander:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wOnYwh8RleU/T6efh-4c8wI/AAAAAAAABxk/djJMZsYNv0s/s851/IMAG1333.jpg

But whilst grinding it down I noticed that the Yew has separated from the blade at the front on the left hand side of the knife (on the right as you view this photo):

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bLgMaDfK5fg/T6efiAoGq-I/AAAAAAAABxg/eQ7hHAdvpn4/s851/IMAG1334.jpg

I'm not sure what to do about it now, so I'm going to ignore it and pretend it isn't there although I know this is where moisture and muck will get in and start rusting the blade. :ashamed:

Is there anything thin enough I could get into that little gap to seal it up? If this was a knife I cared more about, I'd be tempted to get it back in the fire and burn the handles and glue off, then bang it flat and start over with the handles. But that's just WAY too much work.

[Bernie]

Right; I've hand sanded down to 240 grit now and the gap, if anything, is even bigger than it was before! :(

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-V1ExgiiMMcc/T6euW_PKtjI/AAAAAAAABx8/-pphUaVG3o8/s641/IMAG1337.jpg

But the Yew is looking it's usual gorgeous amber colours:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qjti8oKrLkc/T6euWhxpO7I/AAAAAAAAByA/TrGtHKwetKY/s641/IMAG1336.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s-7_OSdk7xg/T6euVnq5GyI/AAAAAAAABx0/KGX6p6rKm0I/s641/IMAG1335.jpg

[Adam Savage]

Looking fantastic Bernie. Really liking the natural look of the yew. Well done mate. :)

[Bernie]

Each of my family who I've given the knife to to see what they think of the handle has made the same independent comment: "Wow, it's heavy!"

So I decided to weigh it on the kitchen scales (not digital, so not THAT accurate) but it's around the 350g mark!

Both my kids said it doesn't need to be sharp, you could club animals to death with it! :zombie-fighting:

[CanadianMike]

Nice job, love the yew!!

Only thing I could think of for the gap is to squeeze more epoxy in there and clamp again.....

[Adam Savage]

For the gap, there is a product on the market, called chair doctor. It is designed to soak into the fibres of the wood and swell them, filling small gaps, as it's designed to "tighten up" mortise and tenon joints in furniture. It should work :)

[Bernie]

I put a coat of Danish oil on the wood (don't you just LOVE how it brings out the depth of colours in woods?) and then decided I'd clean up the blade a little as well so I tried some metal polishing stuff I have in the garage, which has been sitting in a drawer for ages as well. I'm rather pleased with the knife, and I think I will do what CanadianMike suggested and get some more glue in that gap because without it I fear the little bit of Yew will snap off. One side effect of the polishing is that it's now horrifically sharp. I put it on the back of my hand and the hairs literally jump off in fear of the edge! :D

Some more photos - because you want to SEE it:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZajfjG_3Jn4/T6fFfE8wl9I/AAAAAAAAByQ/PBzxMc8A9Wo/s855/P5071593.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ig3lbs76nkw/T6fFfSb72XI/AAAAAAAAByY/BF85dwXtzVk/s855/P5071594.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RSlcZ0ZAO34/T6fFfYXJhDI/AAAAAAAAByU/OVsBGP0bY_k/s855/P5071595.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KIdFdx82umM/T6fFlLP8yaI/AAAAAAAAByo/TXFsg2-pbDs/s855/P5071596.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BIfFG17LBKk/T6fFl7KTFNI/AAAAAAAABy0/OH2IqRFXerY/s855/P5071597.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iZK9qhJSen8/T6fFl_b7DjI/AAAAAAAABys/PyquMT0J230/s641/P5071599.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ypcdx9Ptsik/T6fFrvZkE6I/AAAAAAAABzQ/-lDTsLmBZrQ/s641/P5071601.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NHWWq1bSVII/T6fFr_hCLvI/AAAAAAAABzI/fB9308yFi3E/s641/P5071602.JPG

I'm about to start looking at the sheath making now...

[Adam Savage]

Very nice and shiny :D

[AL...]

Bernie It is fantastic I also love the yew wood. The grain realy stands out.
Great job mate

Cheers
AL

[Bernie]

As for the leather sheath, follow this (http://www.beebeknives.com/html/make_a_sheath_tutorial.html) fantastic guide and you'll have a great looking sheath. The stamping/embossing is totally optional, so if you haven't got anything that will leave an interesting indentation, just leave that part out. A lot of sheaths look better for being simple...less is more :)

Excellent advice Adam, thank you. I followed it step by step and it would've been a great sheath but for the fact that I wasn't sure how wide to make it, and the leather I had appeared to be only just wide enough. So I went ahead and made the sheath but now find that the knife only goes part way into it because the handle is so chunky. Sigh.

At least it's a safe place to store the knife for now. I think I'm going to give it a few days and think about what to do.

You can see here how the sheath is suffering from me forcing the knife in as far as I can push it:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ja7tUianECY/T6f54KeLv_I/AAAAAAAABzc/fYTYX7GdqKg/s855/P5071604.JPG

My sewing could do with a little erm... well you can tell:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gtU8KeuFQhE/T6f54NmKT1I/AAAAAAAABzk/g6ZmIBDJ3V8/s855/P5071605.JPG

Overall it looks like a sheath at least, though it needs some shoe polish when it's dried out:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uEKdGzcRtMk/T6f54D_O06I/AAAAAAAABzg/XZZHM7ngkRI/s855/P5071603.JPG

[Adam Savage]

What sort of leather is that? It looks like it's laminated layers, with a textile of some kind. If it's standard leather, dipping it in hot warm to hot water can soften it up a bit, so you can push the knife in all the way, then let it dry to keep it's size/shape. However, don't leave it in hot water for more than 10 or 15 seconds at a time, as it will "hard boil" the leather and make it shrink by up to 1/8 of it's original size.

If you make a fresh sheath from untreated leather, try damping it slightly and scoring a line where the stitching will be, then use a spike of some kind (like a carpenters scratch, or heavy needle) to make the holes (or at least the start of the holes) in the first layer of leather. Once you glue the sheath together (and let it cure for a couple hours or so, depending on the glue used) you can use a small 1mm - 1.5mm drill, to make the stitch holes all the way through, then dampen again and use a wide, blunt screwdriver, to join the holes with short "grooves". You should be able to do this with only hand power, but sometimes a few light taps with a small hammer are needed. This will make the stitching look a little neater and set them in to the leather a little, reducing the chance of snagging the threads on brambles, etc. :)

[Bernie]

That's brilliant advice, thank you again. I'm sure my next sheath with be far better. This one, as you say, doesn't feel like genuine leather.

I have my knife wrapped up in cling film and shoved as far as I can get it into the damp sheath. But alas, it's still not enough. I'd need the leather to stretch quite a bit to get the handle in as far as I want it.

Wondering where I can scrounge some leather now - this stuff I bought at the car boot sale is just thin offcuts.

[Adam Savage]

There are often small pieces on ebay, around the same size as a sheet of paper, for around £10 - £15 in 3mm and 4mm thicknesses. Not sure what's on there at the moment though. I would send you some, but I only have enough for one sheath myself at the moment, which will be used for a knife I'm making for Dave Jones (BCUK Dave53). Sorry buddy.

[jus_young]

That is one seriously meaty knife there. Should be great for battoning and you will have to let us know what it carves like.

[CanadianMike]

Design out the sheath on paper, cut out and transfer to thin cardboard (like cereal box), and cut that out, then test fit best you can.

[Adam Savage]

Design out the sheath on paper, cut out and transfer to thin cardboard (like cereal box), and cut that out, then test fit best you can.

Great advice Mike. I sometimes use thick card (like the corrugated stuff) when I use the 4mm leather. I find it gives a more accurate "feel" to what you're doing. :)

[Adam Savage]

Here's a good sized piece of veg tan, which will give you plenty of leather to make a sheath from, with a good length belt loop too. I think 6 inches should be enough to wrap around your knife, looking at the pictures, but only you will know if that sounds right or not.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-x-6-NATURAL-TOOLING-VEG-TAN-LEATHER-4-mm-Sheath-/380363009316?pt=UK_Crafts_Leathercraft_LE&hash=item588f66ed24#ht_3221wt_1031

[CanadianMike]

Great advice Mike. I sometimes use thick card (like the corrugated stuff) when I use the 4mm leather. I find it gives a more accurate "feel" to what you're doing. :)

True, but makes it harder to fold nicely, and ends up making it look like a stealth sheath with all the angles. :)

[Adam Savage]

True, but makes it harder to fold nicely, and ends up making it look like a stealth sheath with all the angles. :)

If you keep the card so the corrugations run from top to bottom, the card curves round the knife rather well :) True, if you have the corrugations running across the sheath, it does turn out a looking like a tetris B-2 lol

[CanadianMike]

Even that way, the cardboard takes many angles....... hey, do you have different cardboard over there than we do? Sheesh, just occured to me, maybe your corrigated cardboard might be narrower than we have here, of course there are different types........ meh, guess once in a while the big lake between us kicks in. ;)

[Adam Savage]

I'll have to paddle my little boat over some time, check out the card you guys have :p

[Adam Savage]

I should add, I tend to roll my card a few times, to "soften it up". Maybe that's an important part...lol

[CanadianMike]

Ya, that would help! Lol, is yours a layer of corrigated glued between thich thick layers of heavy paper?

[Adam Savage]

Yeah, that's the stuff. Sometimes it comes out a little rippled, but it's still good enough for me :)

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/projects%20and%20equipment/IMG_0567.jpg

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/projects%20and%20equipment/IMG_0568.jpg