View Full Version : first project stove
nat110732
22-07-2011, 09:20 PM
Hi,
I am in the process of planning my first stove to use with pop can and wood. i like the dogfood can hobo idea but i am fortunate enough to have access to most fabrication tools and materials so i fancy fabbing one up myself. i think the 1st prototype is going to be 1.6mm alu sheet(conductivity an all that) but i'm just wondering how far below the kettle does the pop can have to be to effective? is it just a case if the closer the better
cheers nat:confused2:
nat110732
24-07-2011, 07:18 PM
just answered my own question watching the white box stove vid!!
nat110732
31-08-2011, 06:18 PM
Here's v1http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6066/6100646916_6302ee3864.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/66925394@N03/6100646916/)
prototype stove v1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/66925394@N03/6100646916/) by nat&lou (http://www.flickr.com/people/66925394@N03/), on Flickr
Nat
ps just practising uploading pics with this thread too
nat110732
31-08-2011, 06:52 PM
Made this at work but I didnt do anything that couldnt be achieved at home with some basic tools
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6069/6100176887_7beac615ef.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/66925394@N03/6100176887/)
assembled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/66925394@N03/6100176887/) by nat&lou (http://www.flickr.com/people/66925394@N03/), on Flickr
nat
ps obviously not the tatonka tho!
nat110732
31-08-2011, 06:56 PM
....the field test!
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6086/6100180313_7099092ab3.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/66925394@N03/6100180313/)
roarin (http://www.flickr.com/photos/66925394@N03/6100180313/) by nat&lou (http://www.flickr.com/people/66925394@N03/), on Flickr
nat
paul standley
31-08-2011, 08:30 PM
Looking good, have you cooked on it yet ?
nat110732
31-08-2011, 08:41 PM
Yes mate, worked quite well with both the Tatonka and wood. BBQ'd some bacon on our 1st trip..lush!
nat
bigzee
02-09-2011, 04:16 PM
Looks like posh kit, and well-engineered.
As for height of pot relative to flame, it would depend on where the flame sits as it burns. We we told at school that there are parts of a flame which are hotter than others. I think generally speaking - its just below the tip of the flame. However there are so many factors to consider with these setups, and even with a meths stove (which tend to burn more evenly than woodburners), you have to think about pot width, about trying not to "waste" any of the flame away from the pot, about whether too much heat would be reflected back onto burner and over-heat it.
These setups go through different stages of heating. At the start the burner is getting hot with a cold pot of water above, then the pot produces condensation (which can sometimes drip on burner). Eventually the pot and the burner reach a a sort of "equilibrium temperature", after which the pot reflects a lot of heat back downwards towards the burner and can increase pressure on it. On some stove/windshield setups, this can get quite dramatic/scary, so adequate venting and airflow is a must.
This is based on experience with meths burner setups, and of course wood-burners do not produce such uniform/regular flames, so I would suggest the airflow and ventilation are the primary considerations there. If you have lots of airflow, the wood will burn faster and hotter, however you use up wood at a higher rate. If you could make a stove with adjustable pot support height that would be useful, and tends to be easier to do when pot sits inside rather than on top of stove.
It's all trial and error really, unless you're really good with scientific principles and maths -then you could calculate rates of heat tranfer and thermal conductivity etc. Maybe get one of your aerospace boffins to work it all out for you?
nat110732
02-09-2011, 04:39 PM
Thanks bigzee,
I'm quite pleased for a 1st attempt and it did work quite well with both wood & a tatonka. Adjustable pot height? Sat inside stove? Liking that idea because I did find that the cookpots had a tendency to slide about quite easily if the stove wasn't level.
I'm also going to try a titanium version so I can lose some material thickness but is as & when I can find some lying around at work!
bigzee
02-09-2011, 09:10 PM
Thanks bigzee,
I'm quite pleased for a 1st attempt and it did work quite well with both wood & a tatonka. Adjustable pot height? Sat inside stove? Liking that idea because I did find that the cookpots had a tendency to slide about quite easily if the stove wasn't level.
I'm also going to try a titanium version so I can lose some material thickness but is as & when I can find some lying around at work!
So you're hoping to lay you hands on a bit of "tit" then eh?
tinkers
03-09-2011, 10:58 AM
hi nat
nice one, that looks like a pretty useful bit of kit you have there, its always good having the option of being able to burn different fuels. i was wondering what size and weight it is when packed and ready to go? and how well did the 1.6mill ally hold up when burning wood as i've been thinking about knocking up a combi burner myself, it'll be a project for over the winter.
tinkers;)
nat110732
03-09-2011, 11:40 AM
Thanks tinkers,
The alu worked well and retained it shape when burning wood( I was worried that it was gonna distort and make pulling apart quite difficult)
As for size and weight, I'll measure up and drop it on the scales when I get home from work today and let you know mate.
I think 1.6mm would be about as thin as I would to go, I work with alu on a daily basis and although I think its melting point is around 700degs, I'm pretty sure anything thinner would lose shape and distort.
Cheers nat
nat110732
03-09-2011, 11:56 AM
So you're hoping to lay you hands on a bit of "tit" then eh?
...If only!
nat110732
03-09-2011, 07:52 PM
hi nat
nice one, that looks like a pretty useful bit of kit you have there, its always good having the option of being able to burn different fuels. i was wondering what size and weight it is when packed and ready to go? and how well did the 1.6mill ally hold up when burning wood as i've been thinking about knocking up a combi burner myself, it'll be a project for over the winter.
tinkers;)
Hi tinkers,
Just had stove on scales and with stainless wire BBQ top its 780g, 730g without.
Packed up its 150mm x 200mm x 20mm.
Hope this helps
nat
Raven
04-09-2011, 05:54 PM
hey mate, looks good, had a go at this myself as i work in fabrication as well
22792280
nat110732
04-09-2011, 06:34 PM
Thanks raven,
Wish i'd got the savvy to program our lasers but hey its amazing what you can do with a drill and die grinder!
That looks the business mate, just love how s/s looks, was it lasered or water-jet?
nat
ps. love the photo with the kettle
tinkers
04-09-2011, 06:52 PM
cheers nat
thank you for taking the time to measure and weigh the stove its much appreciated, that quite a good size to as it turns out it'll fit into any of my rucksack pockets with space to spare. and its a reasonable weight too considering the multi fuel options, i'll just have to work in a slot for the fuel line for my gas trangia burner and its truly universal. i'll deffo be having a look at this when i get me some more ally.
tinkers ;)
Hi tinkers,
Just had stove on scales and with stainless wire BBQ top its 780g, 730g without.
Packed up its 150mm x 200mm x 20mm.
Hope this helps
nat
Raven
05-09-2011, 07:16 AM
Water cut , but the laser is better on the thin stuff I recon, this one has one flaw and that's the weight, I Was a little dubious about Ali because of the heat generated, how does yours fare?
nat110732
05-09-2011, 08:28 AM
So far its fared quite well. I was concerned that prolonged use might cause problems. We had it burning for about 3 hours with no sign of collapse....thankfully! Got some plans for a titanium one but that when I can 'find' some...
Nat
Raven
05-09-2011, 09:14 AM
yeah i'd like to get my hands on some of that myself, not cheep tho! my machine runs DXF files, as do most cnc cutters (autocad based), so if you need any programs written just e-mail me the specs and i can draw it up for you and e-mail back the program.
nat110732
05-09-2011, 12:20 PM
Thanks mate, that would be brilliant! If only I could just email you some titanium in return!
I'm gonna get the ol' drawing board out and tweak my original design a little.
Again, thanks its a really nice offer
Nat
Raven
05-09-2011, 01:26 PM
not a problem mate,
paul
Humakt
05-09-2011, 02:45 PM
That looks very much a Nimblewill Stove. Dead easy to make and considerably cheaper than a Honey Stove.
bigzee
05-09-2011, 06:24 PM
That looks very much a Nimblewill Stove. Dead easy to make and considerably cheaper than a Honey Stove.
Dead easy to make if you know how. Dead easy to ruin if you don't.
Humakt
06-09-2011, 07:39 AM
Dead easy to make if you know how. Dead easy to ruin if you don't.
Erm...not really. It's just a matter of cutting straight lines. You print out the templates, copy them to the material you're going to use and then cut them out. I'm not sure that cutting around templates is 'dead easy' to go wrong, to be honest. With all the other practical tasks a bushcrafter likes to take on I'm sure cutting some straight lines shouldn't prove that difficult. It's not as though it requires any special skills.
Here's the one I made:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2777/4254634190_650d317484.jpg
And I made that with just a Dremel, and the last time I'd done any metal work was at secondary school (which was quite a few years ago now). The idea that these things are difficult to make is not true. Anyone can do it. All in it cost me about £5 (for the cutting discs - a local sheet metal fabricators gave me the stainless offcuts free!). And by making things for yourself you learn new skills, feel empowered and save money. If you're just going to shrug your shoulders and say "ur, I can't do that" then you never will. Especially when it comes to something as simple as cutting straight lines in a piece of metal!
bigzee
07-09-2011, 05:47 PM
Erm...not really. It's just a matter of cutting straight lines. You print out the templates, copy them to the material you're going to use and then cut them out. I'm not sure that cutting around templates is 'dead easy' to go wrong, to be honest. With all the other practical tasks a bushcrafter likes to take on I'm sure cutting some straight lines shouldn't prove that difficult. It's not as though it requires any special skills.
Here's the one I made:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2777/4254634190_650d317484.jpg
And I made that with just a Dremel, and the last time I'd done any metal work was at secondary school (which was quite a few years ago now). The idea that these things are difficult to make is not true. Anyone can do it. All in it cost me about £5 (for the cutting discs - a local sheet metal fabricators gave me the stainless offcuts free!). And by making things for yourself you learn new skills, feel empowered and save money. If you're just going to shrug your shoulders and say "ur, I can't do that" then you never will. Especially when it comes to something as simple as cutting straight lines in a piece of metal!
That's a fair point - well made. I agree that most of us guys on the forum can "turn our hands" to most practical tasks (necessity is the mother of invention), and that is why we're here sharing technical info. I made the remark because I have come across a few folk over the years who couldn't even cut a sandwich straight, never mind thin metal (and some of them were male - shock horror!). A lovely collapsable stove like that needs to have slots at right angles to sit straight when assembled.
Nice work by the way - even got a proper lookin' pouch!
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