My knives come shaving sharp, sharper than most, but this puts mine to shame!!!

[CanadianMike]

Time to curl up into a little ball and pull out my old Japanese water stones.......


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsUw4CmDwfA&feature=related

BTW, there are previous videos to this on how to shapen them this sharp.....

:confused2:

[Notredame11211]

Wow! His knives are definitely sharp, In an other video he shaves with a spoon! Here is the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4oHzFNclzQ&feature=related

[CanadianMike]

Lol, he does quite the stunts, eh?

[comanighttrain]

dat sharp...

[Adam Savage]

I have a bic that does that for me lol. How do we send our blades to him for sharpening? :)

[bigstan]

Dont think i will be shaving like that any time soon. In fact i havent shaved for 24 years, so i wont start now.

[CanadianMike]

I have a bic that does that for me lol. How do we send our blades to him for sharpening? :)

Incidentally, he offers that service for $25 (I signed up for his 7 best free tips)........


Tip #1
What Dulls Knives? How to Extend the Performance of Your Blades
You might be surprised to find out that knives go dull for reasons that most people don't even know about! Knowing what causes blades to get dull, outside of legitimate use, will help you get more performance out of a blade between sharpening. Be sure to read my generous offer at the end of this essay to sharpen your knives for you, so you, too, can experience sharpness like you have never experienced before.

Let's examine the three most common types of blades: 1) kitchen cutlery, 2) pocket folding knives and 3) hunting/camp knives.

The most common cause of blade dulling in the kitchen is knife abuse. By abuse, I mean putting the knife in a dishwasher (where the edge bangs against other silverware), storing the knife loose in a drawer with other cutlery and utensils, laying the knife on a cluttered counter top (where the edge will bang against ceramic plates, etc.) and dropping the knife into the kitchen sink when done using it. Other abuses are cutting food on a ceramic plate, opening UPS packages with your fine kitchen blade (Yes, I admit to having done this once or twice...), and prying frozen food out of it's container with the tip of the blade. No doubt, abuse comes in other forms as well.

Even before you learn to properly sharpen blades, you can help keep your knives sharp by avoiding the above abuse to your blades. Just remember -- anything hard will dull a blade.

Common causes for a folding knife to dull include many of the above, but usually the biggest culprit is overtaxing the design parameters of the knife. What I mean is that most folding knives are designed for light and precise cutting chores, not for heavy duty chopping and slashing, despite what many advertisers claim! Sure, you can use a folder for hard use (putting undue "wear and tear" on the knife that will ultimately shorten the usefulness of your knife), but you can clearly see that the blade will get dull the first time you use it for chopping and slashing. The same goes for digging in the dirt, scraping gasket material off of engine blocks, and using the blade tip as a screwdriver.

Most of the above is obvious, but your folding blade can get dull as a result of getting dirty and dusty in your pocket! Wiping the dirt and dust off the blade results in some of the dirt and dust (which is often very hard) rubbing against the edge of the blade, thus wearing at the edge and contributing to its dullness. This is an incremental contributor. Keep it from getting dirty, or leave it dirty!

Carbon steel blades and carbon core laminated blades can get dull without use just by oxidation of the edge. Keeping the blades lightly oiled with either a modern chemical oil or non-toxic natural oil is the answer. Some chemical oils preserve the blade longer (not "better") but prevent you from enjoying a slice of apple (or cheese, etc.) because your blade was covered in WD-40!

Hunting/camp knives can dull for all or some of the above reasons, but most hunting knives fall victim to something altogether different -- neglect due to pre-conceived notions as to the purpose of the knife. Hunting/camp knife owners often subconsciously assume that the larger blade has more cutting power and wrongfully conclude that the larger blades don't need the cautious care that smaller, thinner blades do. Remember, this topic is about how you can keep your blades from getting dull prematurely.

My ultimate goal is to encourage you to learn how to sharpen blades yourself; hey, you will see that it's not as difficult as you think! Keeping your blades as sharp as possible for as long as possible is a great skill to know.

Watch for Tip #2, coming from me in a couple of days, where I will teach you how to discern what a "really" sharp blade is. Most people have no idea until they know the "Three Finger Test Of Blade Sharpness."
Feel free to share this report with your family and friends. If they would like to receive their own Knife Tips, my catalog or my free Shop Tour DVD, then please direct them to CarterCutlery.com. I look forward to hearing from you.
Sincerely,

Murray Carter
ABS Master Bladesmith


Exclusive Offer for Knife Tips Subscribers
World's Best Sharpening Service for Just $25!

P.S. I want YOU to experience sharpness like you have never seen before. In order to get a blade as sharp as it can get, I re-establish the primary edge (cutting edge) and then hand-hone it on my super fine Japanese waterstones. The whole process takes about 40 minutes to do. To see what a carefully hand-sharpened blade can do, see this link of me shaving with my neck knife.

While we are on the topic of sharp knives, let me make you an offer that will benefit you greatly -- in order to experience the "Scary Sharp" Carter edge send any knife of your choice to me for my personal hand sharpening for the low price of just $25! This will give me an opportunity to share my hard earned skills with you, and also will allow me to start a business relationship with you that I trust will last a lifetime.

Just safely box up your knife and send it to:

Carter Cutlery
22097 NW West Union Rd.
Hillsboro, OR 97124

Include payment for $25 if within the US or $35 if outside the US. Turn around time is usually less than one week.

[CanadianMike]

Next


Tip #2
The Three-Finger Test for Blade Sharpness
In your first FREE Knife Maintenance tip, I discussed some reasons why knives get dull, and what to do to prevent edges from getting dull prematurely. In your second FREE tip you'll discover the quickest and most accurate way to see if a blade is as sharp as possible. At the end of the essay, read my incredible offer to you to get set up for hand sharpening with the best equipment available anywhere in the world for a whopping discount.

There are many conventional methods of testing blade sharpness. One of the most common is to scrape the thumb of the left hand from right to left over the edge of an upward pointed blade. Another test is to see if a blade will shave hairs off of the forearm or slice newspaper. Herein lies a problem as a dull knife with a burr can pass the first test, and a buffed knife (using a motorized buffing machine) can pass the second test of shaving. However, the buffed knife can usually be much sharper. Buffing of the blade results in an edge that resembles the tip of a ballpoint pen microscopically; the edge is round where a hand-sharpened blade will have a completely triangular cross-section.

Another thing that deserves mentioning is the controversial debate between what experts call a "smooth edge" vs. a "toothed edge". The usual conclusion to this debate is that each type of edge will perform a certain cutting task better. I claim that the ideal "scary sharp" edge is one which is triangular in cross section, has microscopic teeth which give the blade "bite" and will also shave hair and slice newspaper with abandon. This kind of "scary sharpness" can easily be detected with the human fingers.

The technique used is as follows
* The blade's handle is held in the right hand of a right-handed person, close to the body, with the tip of the blade pointed to the left and the edge facing downwards.

* The thumb of the left hand is placed on the spine (or back) of the blade for safety and the first 3 fingers of the hand are pressed together side by side. This adds an element of safety, as surface pressure from the blade will be distributed over a larger area. Additionally, there are more nerve endings available to send messages to the brain. (Consider the sensitivity of the nerves of 3 fingers compared to the thumb.)

* The 3 fingertips are brought into contact with the blade's edge, and ever so gently, you attempt to slide the fingers not across, but along the edge of the blade. The blade is tested this way along all parts of the edge.

* A totally dull edge will allow the fingertips to slide back and forth. No sense of danger will be perceived. A buffed blade that shaves will also allow the fingertips to slide, albeit the fingers will sense that the edge has a thin cross-section and the brain will receive the message "don't push too hard."

* At a certain point of applied pressure, the round buffed edge would break the surface tension of the skin, resulting in a cut; but the brain will tell you to stop before that happens.
An edge accomplished in step 5 (grinding the primary edge) in our 6-step procedure (watch for my Tip #4 and Tip #5: The 6-Step Sharpening Procedure) will give the fingertips the sensation of sharpness as little teeth in the blade's edge immediately want to "dig into" the fingers and therefore the blade won't slide along the 3 fingers. Your brain tells you to not even attempt movement. However, the blade will probably not shave at this step.
Upon completing step 6 (edge honing, 6th step of my 6-Step Sharpening Procedure), the fingertips will perceive yet a new level of sharpness, often referred to as "scary sharp". The little teeth in the edge of the blade are barely perceptible, and yet there is no sliding along the fingertips. The blade will also shave hair at this point.

Watch for Tip #3, coming from me in a couple of days, where I will show you how easy it is to sharpen a knife.

Feel free to share this report with your family and friends. If they would like to receive their own Knife Tips, then please direct them to CarterCutlery.com.


Additionally, I would like to offer you a FREE "Shop Tour" DVD and our full color catalog. Just send your name, address and phone number to murray@cartercutlery.com.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Sincerely,

Murray Carter
ABS Master Bladesmith


Exclusive Knife Tips Subscriber Offer

Complete Sharpening DVD Set and Stone Set for 25% Below Retail

P.S. Once you read the next tip, Tip #3, you will be really fired up to want to learn how to sharpen knives the same way as the masters -- doing it free-hand. Nothing jump starts a student's learning curve like my internationally acclaimed two-part Sharpening DVD set, consisting of DVD #1, "Introduction to Knife Sharpening," and DVD #2, "Advanced Blade Sharpening Techniques." Having access to the world's best sharpening stones makes a big difference as well. In an effort to help you with your sharpening pursuit, let me extend an incredible offer to you that will save you 25% off the best sharpening equipment in the world.

Buy the complete Carter Cutlery Sharpening set of two DVDs ($70 full retail price) and two sharpening stones (#1000 grit, $55 and #6000 grit, $60) for 25% off the regular retail price of $185.00 (+$20 priority shipping & insurance) for only $138.00 (+$20 priority shipping & insurance)! You save $47.00 for this one-time only offer. Use Coupon Code SHARPSET25, and in the Order Comments box be sure to send us your comments on using the Three-Finger-Test.

[CanadianMike]

Number three:


Tip #3
Knife Sharpening is Easier Than You Think!
In the previous tip, Tip #2, I taught you the most valuable and practical method to discern blade sharpness -- the Three-Finger Test of Sharpness. The following tip is intended to get you motivated to learn and excited to get Tip #4 which will get into the actual mechanics of sharpening. I really desire to establish a life-long business relationship with you that is based on trust and superior products and knowledge. Be sure to read my generous offer to you at the end of the tip that demonstrates my sincere desire to be of service to you.

Many knife enthusiasts paid their money, bought various gadgets and gizmos, attempted to learn how to sharpen knives only to end up in frustration. It's not their fault, though, as the cutlery industry as a whole has failed miserably in educating the knife-buying public.

Perhaps keeping their knife consumers in the dark, with regards to knife maintenance and sharpening, helps sell more new knives. However, that is not my way of interacting with my valuable customers. I want to share my knowledge with you because experience tells me this is the best way to gain loyal patrons.

The good news is that frustration will never happen to you if you choose to pursue sharpening under my guidance! Check out what my loyal customers are saying about my method of sharpening:


I've tried almost every sharpener there is, without success... until now. Thanks!
--Don Schultz, Firefighter


I didn't think I could ever sharpen a knife to true razor sharpness (repeatedly) until I took Murray's course! It's unbelievable!
--Craig Tolonen, Store Owner


A real eye-opener on knife sharpening!
--Tim Buchanan


Thank you. I can't wait to put these skills to use and continue to improve.
--Chad Hewitt, Pilot/Alaskan Guide


So, I hope you'll believe me when I tell you that anyone can learn the invaluable skill of sharpening. Please put your trust in my ability to teach you properly, and you won't be disappointed. I'll stake my reputation on it! I hope I got you excited enough to read through the next message, Knife Tip #4, because it contains much, much more valuable knife information!

Watch for Tip #4 from me in a couple of days where I will start to tell you of the "Six-Step Sharpening Procedure."

Feel free to share this report with your family and friends. If they would like to receive their own Knife Tips, then please direct them to CarterCutlery.com.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Sincerely,

Murray Carter
ABS Master Bladesmith



Limited One Time Only Offer, Exclusively For Knife Tip Subscribers

25% Off Any Single Item In Stock



I keep emphasizing that my goal in the bladesmithing business is to establish life-long relationships with my customers, based on trust, superior products and knowledge and superior customer service. In an effort to make it easy for you to do business with me, I'm offering to you, for this one time only, 25% off of any single item order you wish to place with Carter Cutlery, on any product or service I offer. Call me immediately to secure this offer at 503-447-1029, or e-mail me directly at murray@cartercutlery.com. I know you will enjoy doing business the old fashioned way -- the way that made America great!

[CanadianMike]

#4


Tip #4
The Six-Step Sharpening Procedure
Finally the Tip you have really been waiting for. Now we will get into the actual process of sharpening knives. I've divided the Six Steps into two mailings so as to not overwhelm you. Be sure to read my very special offer to you at the end of this mailing.

All cutting tools known to man work more efficiently as tools when they are as sharp as they can be. Most professionals who use cutting tools understand the importance of this statement. However, it is an unfortunate fact that at the domestic level, this simple statement of truth, that which our great-grandparents took for granted, has been mostly forgotten. The blades we use at home for food preparation (kitchen knives) and for hobby (pocketknives, hunting knives) remain dangerously dull resulting in inefficient tools which often lead to frustration for the user.

The good news is that this situation can be remedied if the blade user is committed to acquiring the skills needed to keep their domestic blades sharp. The information presented here is intended not only to provide the technical information on how to sharpen "working knives" but more importantly to provide some inspiration and motivation to do it, the elements which when lacking keep us from doing something that we think we would like to do.

I trust that all audiences will benefit from my efforts because it is these last two elements, inspiration and motivation, which I have really focused on in my presentation of material.


How to Sharpen a Blade

When we understand that no blade is as sharp as a freshly sharpened blade, and that a blade used even once is duller then when it was freshly sharpened, then we can assume that all blades which have been used will benefit from proper sharpening.

Other methods that can be used to determine whether a blade needs sharpening are:
1. The blade doesn't cut like is used to or should do.
2. It feels dull using the 3-finger edge test.
3. Light reflects off the edge when the edge is viewed under a good light source.

Once you have determined that a blade needs sharpening, the following procedure is recommended to obtain a sharp blade:

1. Rust removal, cleaning
2. Straightening
3. Profile adjustments
4. Blade thickness adjustments (secondary edge)
5. Grinding an edge (primary edge)
6. Honing
1. Rust removal, cleaning

With use or with neglect, blades and their handles can become dirty, soiled, stained, food ridden or rusty. The first step is to clean the whole tool so as to a) improve its overall condition and b) enable the owner to examine the blade better so as to make more accurate assessments necessary for following steps.

Cleaning can be accomplished with hot water and soap on the handle, if any, and a soft abrasive cleanser on the blade. The blade is placed flat on a stable surface, then cleanser is applied and rubbed back and forth with a rag until clean. Special attention is taken not to cut oneself during this operation. The cleanser will dull a sharpened blade. Therefore, this step must be done before sharpening the edge of the blade (Steps 5 & 6).


2. Straightening

One must check to see if the blade is straight. There is no such thing as a "perfectly straight" blade, however, any good quality blade, one worth sharpening that is, should "look" straight when examined by an educated eye. The proper way to examine a blade is to view the blade from the tip of the blade by holding the handle away from you. In this manner the whole of the blade is in view. . If the blade's handle is held close to the examiner with the blade pointing away, some parts of the blade are hidden from view.

The blade is first examined edge down, then edge up. Lastly, the handle is held in the right hand, blade is pointed to the left and the cutting edge is angled towards the viewer's eyes. This enables the examiner to see whether the blade is twisted at all, like a propeller. A minor twisted blade should be repaired or replaced. Likewise, with a bent blade.


3. Blade profile and adjustments

Blades are occasionally abused or pushed beyond the limitations of their edge geometry (refer to step 4) and the results are broken blade tips or chipped edges. These need to be assessed. If the damage is minor, i.e., less than 1-2mm (1/16") or so, then usually it can be left the way it is to be eventually corrected due to repeated sharpening sessions.

If the damage is major however, it will most likely hamper the blade's performance unless corrected. Such a blade needs to be re-ground before continuing. Major repair is best done by a professional who has water-cooled grinding equipment.


Well, I don't want to keep you from your busy day, so I'll send steps 4 through 6 in Tip #5. Feel free to share this report with your family and friends. If they would like to receive their own Knife Tips, my catalog or my free Shop Tour DVD, then please direct them to CarterCutlery.com.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Sincerely,

Murray Carter
ABS Master Bladesmith




Exclusive Offer For Knife Tip Subscribers

Custom Sheath and a Total Refurbishing and Sharpening for your Knife



Now that you are learning to hand-sharpen your knives at home, it is time to take inventory of all the blades you have kicking around the house. Surely you have some special knives that are in need of some TLC (Tender Loving Care). Why not treat your special blades to a hand made custom leather sheath, hand carved and tooled by Master Leather Designer Rumiko Carter? Or, you can choose to have me custom form a Kydex sheath for your knife.

Also included with this offer is a TOTAL refurbishing and sharpening of your knife. Your knife will be returned to you in such fine condition, you will barely recognize it! Custom sheath, knife cleaned, straightened and sharpened for just $79, return shipping included within the US! (Add $15 for international addresses.)

Just securely box up your knife and send it to:

Carter Cutlery

22097 NW West Union Rd.
Hillsboro, OR 97124

Turn around time is approximately 15 days

[CanadianMike]

#5
Tip #5
Part II - "The Six-Step Sharpening Procedure"
In Tip #4, we covered the first three steps of the sharpening process. Here you will find the continuation of The Six-Step Sharpening Procedure. Be sure to read the Amazing Offer at the end of this mail.

4. Blade thickness, blade geometry (secondary edge)
As a rule of thumb, all blades should be as thin as possible and have as acute an edge as possible but be able to withstand repeated use.
With the exception of axes and bone chopping cleavers, most blades are too thick in cross-section and have edges which are too obtuse. This is why they don't cut well even with a "shaving sharp" honed edge. Poorly designed blades, under the pretense of being built "tough" are delivered to the consumer this way from the start. However, even properly made blades with appropriate thickness and good edge geometry will become too thick and the edge too obtuse after repeated primary edge grinding and honing alone. The edge progresses up into thicker metal as the thin metal is eventually ground away. If a blade has the proper thickness and edge geometry for the task at hand, the goal is to maintain these characteristics through proper sharpening methods.

There are two ways to determine if the blade is too thick or not. (Actually, you could just assume it to be so, and you would be correct 99 percent of the time!) The first method is to use the blade to cut something after the edge is sharpened and honed. Does it cut its intended material easily, or does it tend to "stick" in the cut. Does a kitchen knife slice easily to the bottom of the carrot or potato, or do they split while the blade is only half way through? General observation is the first method.

The second method is to hold the handle in one hand while carefully pinching the back of the blade with the thumb and forefinger of the other hand. The thumb and forefinger are then gently slid down to the cutting edge slowly. After doing this repeatedly with several blades, the fingers accurately transmit messages to the brain of relative thickness and edge graduations. Blades considered to cut well and efficiently can be used as a gauge to compare to other blades. This is a highly accurate method of determining blade thickness and edge geometry once the skill is acquired.

If the blade needs to be thinned, this can be accomplished by laying the secondary edge, (the part of the blade directly behind the primary edge, or cutting edge) flat on a coarse sharpening medium (i.e., 600~1000 grit water stone), moving the blade back and forth to remove metal from the thick areas. All areas of the blade are worked in a systematic order until the desired geometry is accomplished on both sides of the blade. Mentally dividing the length of both sides of the blade into overlapping sections, and then grinding each section in succession usually helps. Each section is ground 5 times back and forth and then visually examined before moving on to the next section. In this way, the blade is not likely to be "over sharpened "as only those sections needing more metal removal will be re-worked.

In general, metal will be removed the quickest in areas where the greatest pressure is applied. Thus, applying pressure towards the primary edge removes more metal just behind the primary edge and pressure applied more towards the spine of the blade tends to improve the secondary edge geometry significantly by removing metal where it is the thickest.

The scratches in the blade, due to the coarse grinding, can be polished out by repeating the same procedure as above with a finer grinding medium (i.e. a 2000 ~ 8000 grit water stone). Often this polishing step improves rust resistance and reduces cutting friction of the blade.


5. Grinding an edge (primary edge)

This is the phenomenon that most people associate with sharpening.
While some specialized blades are sharpened down to an edge in the above step #4, (i.e., the secondary edge and the primary edge are one in the same) most blades have a primary edge ground on them so that the blade will "withstand repeated use".

Grinding the primary edge is accomplished by repeating the same procedures as in step 4, but with the difference being to raise the secondary edge of the blade off of the sharpening medium slightly.

Many authorities on sharpening offer suggestions as to what angle is best in terms of degrees (i.e., 5° or 10°) or an inclusive angle for both sides of the blade (i.e., 10° or 20°). While not bad advice if used as a guideline only, there are two pitfalls to this way of thinking. First, most people who endeavor to sharpen blades have no adequate way to measure such angles while sharpening, let alone maintain such angles while the blade is in motion against the sharpening medium. Secondly, these angles do not take into account the huge influence of metallurgy and the requirements of different cutting tasks. Namely, a blade of superior steel, which has been heat treated properly, can be sharpened at a lower angle for a given task than a blade of lesser quality.

Therefore, let experience be your guide. Raise the secondary edge from the sharpening medium just enough so that as you grind a primary edge, you can just barely see a new bevel being formed when examined in the light. The advice "raise it just a hair" holds true here. Placing a coin on the sharpening medium and then placing the blade spine on the edge of the coin is one expedient reference that can also be used as a guide. For wide blades, or for a more "beefy" primary edge, 2 or 3 coins could be stacked together for reference. The coins are removed from the medium before the blade is set in motion.

The concept here is to have as thin as a primary edge as possible and then observe the edge occasionally as it is used to monitor its performance. If the edge shows the signs of damage, such as miniature chips or curls at the edge, it can be immediately reground at a slightly steeper angle. (Which is why we always keep a sharpening medium handy when possible.)

The blade's primary edge is ground in sections on both sides until the bevels meet in the center along the whole length of the blade. The edge is then tested using the 3-finger technique.

Invariably, as you sharpen a blade, free hand without the use of stabilizing devices, there will be minor rocking of the wrist despite the best efforts to hold the blade at a constant angle to the sharpening medium. By keeping angles low to begin with, your achieved angle will be low or "just right" versus just right and "too high" (obtuse) an angle.

The object of learning to sharpen free hand is so that a) you will not be dependant on a device for your results, enabling you to sharpen anywhere anytime and b) there is no artificial "skill eliminator" keeping you from directly experiencing the mechanics of sharpening thus enabling you to acquire a skill and pursue mastery of sharpening.


6. Honing the primary edge

I also refer to this step as "stropping the edge". First the primary edge will be stropped with the coarse medium and then with the finer medium.
While the grinding procedures in steps 4 and 5 have been a back and forth motion (note: for steps 4 and 5 any grinding motion such as circular or left to right can be used so long as metal is being removed from where you intend) it is very important that all grinding in this last step be done with the primary edge moving away from the grinding medium rather than moving into it. Although barely visible to the eye, the surface of the sharpening medium is covered in metal particles, particles of the medium and surface imperfections that you want your blade riding over rather than the edge bumping into, which would detract from your desired sharpening results.

Imagine trying to shave a postal stamp off of the sharpening medium. Now, move the blade in exactly the opposite manner, keeping the same angle as in step 5. Start with the tip on one corner of the stone and move the blade backwards and sideways at the same time so that you end up with the heel of the blade at the opposite corner of the stone on the same side.

Five such "stropping" strokes are drawn on either side of the blade. Small metal particles that remain on the edge are called the "burr". The burr is removed by drawing the edge, from the heel of the blade to the tip, through a soft piece of wood, twice, under the weight of the blade only. No pressure is applied. Then each side is stropped alternatively twice using less pressure.

This procedure is then repeated using a finer sharpening medium (i.e., 2000 - 8000 grit stone).

This concludes the six-step sharpening process:

1. Rust removal, cleaning
2. Straightening
3. Profile adjustments
4. Blade thickness adjustments (secondary edge)
5. Grinding an edge (primary edge)
6. Honing

Remember to:

* use low angles
* always "strop" backwards
* monitor progress using the 3-finger method of testing sharpness

.

Cut the end short due to length......

[Notredame11211]

Lol, he does quite the stunts, eh?

I would like to see him shave with an axe :D

[Metal mug]

I would like to see him shave with an axe :DA chainsaw would be better.

[Adam Savage]

A chainsaw would be better.

There's always one. :p

[Martin]

There's always one. :p

...and it's normally Jack!! ;)

Martin

[Adam Savage]

But back on topic. Some great advice there, that people should know. Thanks for finding ans posting it all Mike.

Adam

[CanadianMike]

Hey, no problem, I just had to go through my email inbox to copy/paste on here. When I get the next ones over the course of a few more days, I'll post up here.

Had a laugh, one of the comments on his spoon video was "Murray could sharpen a ball bearing if he wanted to". :D

[Notredame11211]

Had a laugh, one of the comments on his spoon video was "Murray could sharpen a ball bearing if he wanted to". :D

He could probably put an edge on anything he wanted to...

[Metal mug]

Hey, no problem, I just had to go through my email inbox to copy/paste on here. When I get the next ones over the course of a few more days, I'll post up here.

Had a laugh, one of the comments on his spoon video was "Murray could sharpen a ball bearing if he wanted to". :D


He could probably put an edge on anything he wanted to...I can't wait to see him sharpen a sugar cube. :D

[Adam Savage]

I can't wait to see him sharpen a sugar cube. :D

Surprised you didn't say "can't wait to see him sharpen a Japanese water stone" :)

[CanadianMike]

You guys are odd............... not that there's anything wrong with that! :D

[Metal mug]

Surprised you didn't say "can't wait to see him sharpen a Japanese water stone" :) :happy-clapping:


You guys are odd............... not that there's anything wrong with that! :D That's what bushcraft does to people. ;)

[Adam Savage]

That's what bushcraft does to people. ;)

That's what knowing Jack...does to you ;)

[bigzee]

Dont think i will be shaving like that any time soon. In fact i havent shaved for 24 years, so i wont start now.
If you did have a shave now - would they have to start calling you "littlestan"?

[Metal mug]

That's what knowing Jack...does to you ;)How dare you! I'm going to have Harvey (the big purple dragon that only I can see) attack you. ;) :D

[Adam Savage]

How dare you! I'm going to have Harvey (the big purple dragon that only I can see) attack you. ;) :D

The scary thing is, you may actually have an imaginary purple dragon called Harvey...i know I do...;)

[Dan XF]

Have you seen the video of this guy using one of his machetes to shave someones head? He uses a piece of newspaper to strop the blade and claims it's down to the small ceramic particles in the recycled paper acting like a fine grit stone. I thought it looked implausible so I tried it with a newspaper on my kitchen work top then shaved with the knife. This gut knows his stuff.

[Metal mug]

This gut knows his stuff. I didn't think he was that fat. ;)

[Notredame11211]

Have you seen the video of this guy using one of his machetes to shave someones head? He uses a piece of newspaper to strop the blade and claims it's down to the small ceramic particles in the recycled paper acting like a fine grit stone. I thought it looked implausible so I tried it with a newspaper on my kitchen work top then shaved with the knife. This gut knows his stuff.

There is no way that I would let this guy shave my head with a machete

[therealmow]

Have you seen the video of this guy using one of his machetes to shave someones head? He uses a piece of newspaper to strop the blade and claims it's down to the small ceramic particles in the recycled paper acting like a fine grit stone. I thought it looked implausible so I tried it with a newspaper on my kitchen work top then shaved with the knife. This gut knows his stuff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yi7_7IcE1ew < -- video
So should I dump my leather strop and just get some newspaper? XD

[Adam Savage]

There is no way that I would let this guy shave my head with a machete

I'm with you on that one buddy.

[bigstan]

Hey bigzee the reason i am called bigstan is years ago i was 23 stone and as i am now 16 stone but still 6 foot 4 inches i suppose i should be called "not as big as i was stan". I used to live in Skellingthorpe just outside Lincoln, still miss it sometimes.

[Ashley Cawley]

lol... that video reminds me of this one:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PNEAhDA7D4

*Don't try this at home kids, be sensible and try it in the woods :p

[Adam Savage]

What he doesn't tell you, is that he uses immac instead of shaving gel :p ...dissolve the hair first, then scrape it off :)

[Metal mug]

Anyone for face bacon? :D

[CanadianMike]

What he doesn't tell you, is that he uses immac instead of shaving gel :p ...dissolve the hair first, then scrape it off :)

Explains the hair on the backs of his hands and fingers. Lol

[bigstan]

No thanks i will keep the beard.

[CanadianMike]

Here are the last two tips from Murray:


Tip #6
Why Some Blades Perform Better Than Others

(Special Offer at the end of this Tip)


You have read about the "Three Finger Test Of Sharpness" and "The Six-Step Sharpening Procedure" in previous tips.

Those essays help the blade aficionado understand what makes certain blades perform so well in their designed task, namely, cutting. By examining blade sharpening and practicing the six-step sharpening procedure, we can understand the criteria that determine great blades through a process of reverse engineering. For example, when we encounter a blade that has a primary edge that is very thick and sharpened at a very obtuse angle, or when the secondary edge doesn't extend very far up the sides of a knife that is made from very thick bar stock, we can surmise that it won't cut very keenly.

The cutlery industry seems to follow the notion that a knife has to be thick enough, and strong enough to withstand the worse abuse, at a sacrifice of cutting performance.


My philosophy is that a blade should be designed for cutting

My rule of thumb is that all blades should be as thin as possible, but still hold up to repeated normal use.

By now you will have gathered that the geometry of the blade is very important to cutting performance. The other criteria for high performance cutlery, in order of importance, is as follows:

1. Blade geometry
2. Ease of maintenance
3. Durability
4. Edge sharpness
5. Edge-holding ability
The ease at which a blade can be maintained at top performance is vitally important and thus is second on our list, ahead of sharpness and edge retention, which may come as a surprise to some. Namely, we want to be able to re-sharpen a blade easily. If two different blades were equal in edge retention, and the same technique for sharpening was used, the blade that sharpened the quickest is better
Durability means that the knife, both handle and blade, must not fail or break during normal use.


Please note that while not listed in the criteria above, it is assumed that ergonomics of a knife are the most important consideration of high performance cutlery. Good ergonomics are achieved when the handle and blade are designed to effectively and efficiently transfer the power and control of the users hand to the edge of the blade.

Feel free to share this report with your family and friends. If they would like to receive their own Knife Tips, my catalog or my free Shop Tour DVD, then please direct them to CarterCutlery.com.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Sincerely,
Murray Carter
ABS Master Bladesmith


Tip #7
Is That Blade an Asset or a Liability?
See my Bonus Offer at the end of this essay
to secure a knife that will truly be a great asset!

All of us buy and acquire things for various reasons. Sometimes we genuinely need something for our day-to-day activities, such as a toothbrush to brush our teeth, and other times we purchase items simply because we desire to have them. I think that either motivation to purchase is legitimate if the buyer stops to consider the Asset/Liability concept.

Considering the following questions will help you determine the value of each knife you have:
1. Is this for day-to-day use?
2. Is this for an investment?
3. Do I just have to have it regardless of the cost to me?
If you spend X amount of money on a knife purchase and you use the knife several times a week, or even daily, then the cost-per-use of that knife is less and less the more you use it. For example, if you buy a $100 knife, and use it 100 times per year for ten years, then your cost is 10 cents (or $0.10) each time you use it. On the other hand, if you use that same knife just a couple of times during ownership, it could cost you upwards of $50 per use.

Keep in mind that a knife which is used even just once is no longer in mint condition, thus subtracting greatly from its value on the second-hand market. This brings us to the second question:

2. Is the knife purchased for an investment?

Some knives, especially those made by prolific and highly sought-after custom knife makers, can be sold on the second-hand market for more than the knives were bought for. Usually the price difference corresponds to the passage of time. Wouldn't it be great to receive 20% interest on a knife investment over a couple of years!

Let's say that your $100 knife, never used, is sold for $120. You made $20 profit...or did you? You see, every time you moved that knife around your home from one storage spot to the next, every time you took it out and cleaned, it cost you time and effort. Surely your time and effort are worth something in terms of dollars and cents. I'd argue that your profit in this case was much less than the $20 you thought you made.

So where does that leave us? Is your knife working for you, or are you working for it?

Knives that are constantly being used, pay for themselves, and are an asset to you. Knives that are carefully chosen for investment purposes might prove to be an asset over time. But the knife that is bought on impulse and then rarely used, it is clearly a liability to you... unless you are able to positively answer the following question in the affirmative.

And finally:

3. Do I just have to have the knife regardless of the cost to me?

If you answered "yes" to that question, that's OK, too, so long as you realize you are paying to pursue your hobby. By the way, having a hobby is one of the greatest expressions of freedom, and freedom is never free!

Well, that concludes the Seven Free Knife Care and Maintenance Tips. Please feel free to contact me with any questions or comments. More information can be found at CarterCutlery.com. Feel free to share this report with your family and friends. If they would like to receive their own Knife Tips, my catalog or my free Shop Tour DVD, then please direct them to cartercutlery.com.

Send me your feedback on these "Seven Knife Maintenance Tips" by email to murray@cartercutlery.com. Including your name, address and phone number and I will send you a FREE $20 gift certificate (no expiration), good towards any Carter Cutlery Product ordered by phone.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Sincerely,

Murray Carter
ABS Master Bladesmith

[CanadianMike]

The last three (love the 9th one!!)


Tip #8
Storing Your Cutlery Long Term
Even in the best of times, sometimes a person can't avoid the necessity of storing his personal belongings for a prolonged period of time. Perhaps he is off to study away from home, sent away on an out-of-town work assignment, or is simply between permanent living accommodations. Whatever the cause, cardboard boxes are procured and the belongings packed away in them. Some of the packed things will likely remain in the exact same condition months or years later (books, pottery), and some might not (wool clothes, devices including batteries, etc.).

This brings us to the question for the owner of more knives than he can take with him: What is going to happen to my knives if I store them, and what can I do to protect them?

There is both good news and bad news for the person asking this question.

The good news is that, short of a natural disaster or high moisture, the knives will still be there when the boxes are reopened, more or less in the same shape as when they were packed away. Knives are fairly permanent things and it takes a lot to make a knife "perish."

The bad news is that thanks to the second law of thermodynamics, commonly known as entropy, all materials on earth are constantly breaking down into their most basic elements. As complicated as that sounds, it simply means that steel will rust, brass and nickel silver will tarnish, and handle materials will age. How much aging will happen while the knives are packed away is anybody's guess, but one thing is certain, it will be more than if the knives were being looked at and tended to every couple of weeks or so.

So, in conclusion, try to avoid packing your knife collection in storage if you can. Maybe you have a dear trusted friend or family member who likes knives as much as you and who would be willing to baby-sit them while you are gone. Have them give them a "once over" every month or so until you come back. Ideally, the knives would remain in better condition than packing them away.

If that solution isn't feasible in your case, then here are some suggestions on how to pack your knives away and still feel like you can sleep soundly at night:

1. Always remove knives from leather sheaths.

2. Treat leather sheaths with a leather-preserving product and store in a separate box from knives.

3. Clean the blades of knives with acetone, being careful to not get acetone on any non-metal part of the knife.

4. Oil or wax the blades with your favorite product, applying product with a clean towel or tissue and NOT with fingers.

5. Wrap the blades in a clean piece of glossy color newsprint (not black ink pages).

6. Tape newsprint in place, but not directly to the steel.

7. Holding the wrapped blade, wipe the rest of the knife with preferred oil or wax product, taking special care to reach all the "nooks and crannies." Use a cotton swab in the tight places, if necessary.

8. Wrap the whole knife in something soft of your choice -- clean towel, newsprint, bubble wrap, etc.

9. Place carefully into a box and mark the box on all sides indicating there are knives in it.

10. Try not to lose any sleep while you are gone.

There you have it. I hope you found this tidbit of advice useful. Feel free to share this report with your family and friends. If they would like to receive their own Knife Tips, my catalog or my free Shop Tour DVD, then please direct them to CarterCutlery.com.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Sincerely,
Murray Carter
ABS Master Bladesmith

[CanadianMike]

Great info here for us.......



Tip #9
How to Sharpen Anywhere, With Anything
If you enjoy reading this tip and want the FREEDOM that mastery of skills brings, then pay close attention to the special offer at the end of this essay.
In Tips #4 and #5, I explained in detail how to achieve razor-sharp cutlery using simple sharpening stones. The technique I use is proven and very effective. What, though, are we to do if we do not have our stones handy and need to sharpen a knife?

The first thing you need to do when you find yourself in this situation of peril is sit down, relax and don't panic! Seriously, though, all you have to do is look around for something that is harder than tempered steel. How about the rocks under your feet, or the curb in the driveway, or a cement foundation? Some other things to consider are the backsides of pottery and ceramics, sand paper, the diamond file on your Leatherman Tool or a carbide bit from another cutting tool.

I once refurbished the edge on my neck knife using an old 2x4 that had been trampled into the ground for years. The dirt that was imbedded into the wood made a great abrasive. The long flat surface made it easy to make long sharpening strokes and sped up the job to under a minute.

Once you have found your "sharpening system," the trick is to only sharpen by using the "stropping" technique I explained in Step #6 of Tip #5. Here it is again:


Stropping the Edge
It is very important that all grinding in this technique be done with the edge moving away from the grinding medium rather than moving into it. Imagine trying to shave a postal stamp off of the sharpening medium. Now, move the blade in exactly the opposite manner. If the sharpener is too small to move the blade against it, it will be necessary to immobilize the blade and move the sharpener.

Strop both sides of the blade. Small metal particles that remain on the edge are called the "burr." The burr is removed by drawing the edge, from the heel of the blade to the tip, through a soft piece of wood, twice, under the weight of the blade only. No pressure is applied. Then each side is stropped alternatively twice using less pressure.

If you are satisfied with the new edge according to the three-finger test of blade sharpness, you can try further refinement using a piece of cardboard or newspaper. Several backward passes on the paper should give you a hair-shaving sharp edge.

So, for fun or for profit, try this emergency sharpening secret and you will be well on your way towards mastering the art of freehand blade sharpening.

I hope you found this information fun and informative. Feel free to share this report with your family and friends. If they would like to receive their own Knife Tips, my catalog or my free Shop Tour DVD, then please direct them to CarterCutlery.com.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Sincerely,

Murray Carter
ABS Master Bladesmith

[CanadianMike]

And finally....


Tip #10
The Solution to the Dilemma:
Using and Depending on Only One Knife, or Keeping a Spare Blade Razor Sharp in Case of an Emergency
If you are looking for the ULTIMATE set of tactical knives, look for the Exclusive Offer at the end of this essay.

There are some knife authorities who advocate that knife aficionados keep a spare knife on their person, in razor-sharp condition, and to never use it unless a matter of life and death comes before them, the rationale being that the pristine razor sharp edge will save the day. I strongly disagree.

There is much argument against the above advice. First and foremost, if you are presented with a life or death situation and your last resort is your knife (Heaven forbid! You can still own a handgun in this country, you know!), then you need a familiar knife. You need one that feels comfortable and natural in your hand if you are to use it effectively and unconsciously. You will need the knife that you use most often and know how to reflexively draw and present into action. By comparison, your body will not have developed the "muscle memory" needed to access the unused, razor-sharp knife. Muscle memory is the only way you'll get a knife in your hand when thrust into the stress of a "fight or flight" situation.

By using "Ol' Reliable," you'll know what to expect when the blade meets some resistance, and it will be less likely to be jarred from your hand as would an unfamiliar knife. Incidentally, while it is true that a really sharp knife cuts easier, a knife doesn't have to be razor sharp to cut or stab when brute force is applied. (As a case in point, think about all the very nasty accidents that occur with dull knives).

Another point to consider is that the "so-called" razor-sharp knife may not be razor sharp after all. I mean, whose opinion are you going to trust on that one? Unless you actually cut things with it, how are you going to know if it is really sharp or not? Now, if you go through with that process of examination, may I suggest to you, that you now have enough experience and knowledge to start keeping "Ol' Reliable" sharp, via sharpening on a regular basis!

So my recommendation is to rely on one knife and to use it as often as you can. Get to know what it can do and cannot do. Learn how to maintain it and sharpen it. Let it become a part of you, and one day it just may very well save the day.

Well, that concludes all 10 Knife Tips. I hope you enjoyed this little journey through some topics that are rarely covered by cutlery media. Always trust Carter Cutlery to give it to you from a unique angle when it comes to knife talk, knowledge and advice, that just plain old makes sense.

Feel free to share this report with your family and friends. If they would like to receive their own Knife Tips, my catalog or my free Shop Tour DVD, then please direct them to CarterCutlery.com.

Just in case you missed any of the tips, here is the link for the full set:
Carter Cutlery Tips
I look forward to hearing from you.

Sincerely,

Murray Carter
ABS Master Bladesmith

[still water]

that is a sharp knife, i saw a guy shave with his perang once and he had cuts all over his face when he had finished that guys face looked smooth. great vid

[JonnyP]

Decided to have a go at this myself.. I grew a beard recently until I really had had enough of it, then had a shave using my opinel. It shaved a load off, but not well and I soon switched to my normal razor, cos I was getting sore..
Credit to matey for getting his knife that sharp to shave a cold beard..

[CanadianMike]

I came into work freshly shaven the week before last (I'll typically not shave for a couple weeks, then just buzz it off with my electric shaver, is rare to actually use a razor) because I decided to dry shave my cheek with a customer's freshly honed knife to test it..........

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/303006_10150336714039207_510619206_7828469_2068160 038_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/295937_10150336714344207_510619206_7828470_7169637 91_n.jpg