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View Full Version : Which Oil to Finish Wood?



Ashley Cawley
03-12-2011, 03:56 PM
Hi folks,

I'm looking to try new oils to finish wood, did some reading this morning and learnt a few things about oils so thought I'd share the bits I had been reading. Also I thought I'd ask you for your experiences on what oils you've tried and what you've liked and what you haven't.

So I'm interested in trying Walnut and Tung oil (I've got some on order but not tried them yet). I've used Linseed oil (aka Flaxseed / edible variety), Danish oil and Olive oil.

Here's some further reading on the topic:

- Good Thread on BCUK called "Best oil for wood? (http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82583)"
- Good article by Robin Wood titled: "what is the best oil for treating wood? (http://greenwood-carving.blogspot.com/2009/12/what-is-best-oil-for-treating-wood.html)"
- Wikipedia article on Tung Oil (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil)

Ashley Cawley
03-12-2011, 04:00 PM
So I popped into my local hardware store (before I bought from Amazon) and asked for Tung Oil - Three people in there had never heard of it! Which made me feel quite stupid as they thought someone was having-me-on with it - funny, I'm sure I spent about an hour on the Internet reading up on the stuff, unless I had been hallucinating this morning!

Anyway bought a 250ml bottle of Danish oil from the hardware store and then headed home to purchase some Tung oil from Amazon.co.uk

Ashley Cawley
03-12-2011, 04:02 PM
Walnut oil or Tung oil sounds the business for finishing projects that are going to be in contact with food/drink, that is unless you have an allergy to nuts as both come from nuts.

JEEP
03-12-2011, 04:09 PM
I prefer using traditional raw linseed oil. It is easy to work with (if you remember to dispose of the rags safely afterwards), cheap, easily available, has a pleasant odour and I like the finish it gives.

The secret to using raw linseed oil is to apply several thin layers, allowing each layer to dry for a long time - each layer is rubbed into the wood with a soft rag. You can sand off with very fine sandpaper (250+ grit) between each layer and finish off with super fine sandpaper (500+ grit) to get an extra smooth result, but the traditional way here in Scandinavia, is to simply polish with a dry rag and leave the surface slightly matte, giving you a safer and more comfortable grip.

For highly polished surfaces I use a natural Balsin stock oil. It is mainly linseed oil, but with with a few other natural oils added, causing it to obtain and maintain a shine more easily. It is expensive, when compared to raw linseed oil, though.

Raw linseed oil self combusts very easily, rags must be burned after use! This is not to be taken lightly!

For items that come into contact with food, like my medieval eating bowls for re-enactment and kitchen spoons, I use colza (rape seed) oil mixed with salt. Colza oil is almost taste neutral and the salt helps preserving the wood.

Whistle
03-12-2011, 04:21 PM
Walnut oil or Tung oil sounds the business for finishing projects that are going to be in contact with food/drink, that is unless you have an allergy to nuts as both come from nuts.

When I had a new Blackwood flute made , it was recommended that I used Almond Oil to treat it ( especially the bore )

to proof against moisture from the breath ...

Good warning for any nut allergy sufferers though , after all , even packets of peanuts have a warning that they

" May contain nuts " Ha ha ha !!!


Cheers Whistle

Realearner
03-12-2011, 04:24 PM
I have used Danish oil and got good results, but it was on my kitchen worktops. However I have also used waxes on wood as these can colour and I like the shine it gives, and the feel is not slippery at all.

CanadianMike
03-12-2011, 05:15 PM
I use boiled linseed oil on my GB axe handle, and my tomahawk/trade axe handle, is easy and works well, gives a nice yellow tint.

On my wood handled knives recently, I've been using polymerized tung oil sealer for the first couple coats, then polymerised tung oil for following coats, works well, fairly water resistant, you can still feel the wood in your hand, and it finishes well without looking like lacquer.

Martin
03-12-2011, 06:21 PM
I've oiled dozens of cricket bats over the years with linseed oil. The rags have always found their way either into my cricket bag or left in a pile in the garage. I've never experienced any self combustion, nor have I seen any charring or felt anything even rise above room temperature. I wonder if this is an urban myth??

Martin

JonnyP
03-12-2011, 06:46 PM
I've oiled dozens of cricket bats over the years with linseed oil. The rags have always found their way either into my cricket bag or left in a pile in the garage. I've never experienced any self combustion, nor have I seen any charring or felt anything even rise above room temperature. I wonder if this is an urban myth??

Martin

Not an urban myth mate. You do need to be careful with rags soaked in oil, esp if crumpled up..

I buy my tung oil from Brewers, which specialise in paint products etc. I get food grade linseed oil in Mole Valley farmers. Its sold as a horse feed supplement..

JEEP
03-12-2011, 07:01 PM
I've oiled dozens of cricket bats over the years with linseed oil. The rags have always found their way either into my cricket bag or left in a pile in the garage. I've never experienced any self combustion, nor have I seen any charring or felt anything even rise above room temperature. I wonder if this is an urban myth??

Martin

Trust me, it is not! You have been quite lucky actually. The combustion is caused by the heat created by the chemical process of the oil hardening inside a curled or folded rag or, much less likely, on the underside of a rag spread flat out on a surface.
Linseed oil will not combust, or even burn when exposed to a naked flame, when liquid - but once the hardening process kicks in, a lot of heat is produced!

I have personally seen it happen twice, once with a rag left in the sun (speeds up the process significantly) and once with a rag thrown carelessly in a wastebin full of paper (luckily a metal wastebin). Workshops who use linseed oil regulary often has air tight metal wastebins especially for linseed oil soaked rags.

Earlier when the use of linseed oil was more common, fires started by self combusting linseed oil soaked rags, carelessly forgotten by workers, was the main reason for fires at carpenter's workshops.

paul standley
03-12-2011, 07:51 PM
I like Tung oil and actually just today I used it on some American White Oak and it gives a lovely rich finish.

On the topic of spontanious combustion, whilst I've never seen it myself, I ALWAYS burn my rags or wipes that have been used for wood oils and NEVER leave them in the shed just in case.

Martin
03-12-2011, 07:59 PM
I've been using linseed oil for 35 years, both raw and boiled ('cos I didn't know the difference when I was 11). Must be some pretty perfect conditions needed for this to be a problem. It doesn't even say anything on the tin about combustion. Not doubting what you are saying, I just haven't ever experienced it myself.

Martin

However...

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infpai/inflinspontaneouscombust.html

MikeWilkinson
03-12-2011, 07:59 PM
On the topic of Spontaneaous combustion, have a look at this from Wildwood survival - one of my favourite sites for fire lighting.
http://www.wildwoodsurvival.com/survival/fire/spontaneouscombustion/rbjul05/index.html

JEEP
03-12-2011, 08:14 PM
If you buy linseed oil here in Denmark, the label must contain a warning aswell as instructions on how to safely dispose of rags.

Linseed oil is the traditional oil for treating wood here in Scandinavia, it used to be a common household item really. I remember that my father had a airtight metal wastebin at his old workshop, especially for linseed oil soaked rags.

Personally I burn the rags after use.

AdrianRose
03-12-2011, 08:28 PM
Hi Ashley (and the rest of you motley bunch lol)

With regard to finishing wood on knife and axe handles I always use Danish Oil followed by a couple of coats of Carnauba wax. (the carnauba wax is only on the knife handle not the axe handle).

Unfortunately it is very expensive. Also Danish oil can massively affect the colour and finish of a wood.

If the wood has a quick wipe over with a cloth that has Danish oil on it, it will darken slightly. However, if you warm the wood and immerse it in the oil fully for 24 hrs then the wood will darken considerably.

On drinking vessels I have used a variety of oils including Walnut, Olive, Vegetable, Grape Seed and Sesame oil. All of which had their own slightly different finish and mild after taste. As a tip, it's always good to warm the wood a bit first. This opens the pores/grain of the timber which allows a deeper penetration of the oil.

Hope this helps

Ade

AdrianRose
03-12-2011, 08:32 PM
Ps. Sorry forgot to mention that I entirely agree about the huge amount of caution that needs to be used when using Linseed oil.

For a day job I work at Homebase and we have to watch a H&S video specifically about it. Infact a Homebase store once burnt to the ground due to some paper towels that had been used to clean up linseed oil being thrown in a waste paper bin.

Ade

CanadianMike
03-12-2011, 10:20 PM
I can confirm the danger of various oils self-combusting, not from expereince but advice I was given years ago by my previous father in law (woodworker, carver by profession), best to go on the safe side rather than the other. I don't use it that much, mostly I use a cotton swab to apply the oils, then wipe off with a paper towel, not enough in either of them to generate the heat to combust, but still, at least being a bit of a 'tin foil hatter' with this stuff is worth it, while still retaining your manhood. Lol

paulthefish2009
03-12-2011, 10:38 PM
I second that along with jeep and jonnyp, you really do need to be carefull with linseed oil and tung oil, I'm no chemist but under certain conditions they can ignite all on there own.As for finishing wood i like sanding sealer followed by bees wax, i like the smell and the feel of waxed wood, you won't get a hi gloss finish just a nice natural sheen plus on light timbers it does give them a nice mellow colour.

paulthefish2009
03-12-2011, 10:46 PM
sorry mike and adrian, you posted as i was typingy!! but yeh i agree you do need to be carefull with oils,carnuba wax is the hardest naturle wax known to man better than bees wax

Erdbeereis
06-12-2011, 11:07 PM
Does anybody know about roasted walnut oil?
Would it work the same as normal walnut oil?

Thanks,

Erd

Ashley Cawley
07-12-2011, 06:54 AM
On the topic of Spontaneaous combustion, have a look at this from Wildwood survival - one of my favourite sites for fire lighting.
http://www.wildwoodsurvival.com/survival/fire/spontaneouscombustion/rbjul05/index.htmlGreat link, good to see someone able to reproduce it safely.

CanadianMike
07-12-2011, 12:58 PM
sorry mike and adrian, you posted as i was typingy!! but yeh i agree you do need to be carefull with oils,carnuba wax is the hardest naturle wax known to man better than bees wax

Ya, and I have a big can of it, Mothers 100% Pure Carnauba Car Wax or somthing like that. Cost me $25 for it, but I use it a lot! Love it, works great on sheaths, knife handles, blades, even waxed the back window of my 4Runner the other day. And I've barely even touched the amount in there. :)

Ashley Cawley
11-12-2011, 10:36 PM
So my Tung Oil arrived from Amazon, I've used it on a few projects now (http://www.naturalbushcraft.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?2512-Autumn-Winter-Whittlings!) and I like it so far! Doesn't discolour too much, hardens overnight naturally without nasty chemicals making it do so :) .. smells nice, haven't tried using the spoons yet for taste, will report back if it's awful! lol.

CanadianMike
12-12-2011, 01:29 AM
Lol, you go there guinea pig!

Adam Savage
13-12-2011, 11:24 AM
Some great links here guys. I must admit, oil wise I tend to use linseed, but generally I use beeswax with added gloss. Seems to give a good sheen.
Will have to try tung oil and danish oil, as I've heard many good things about them.

Looking forward to seeing some projects in the future Ash. :)

Ashley Cawley
13-12-2011, 11:28 AM
I'll keep you updated :)

Woodwose
13-12-2011, 02:24 PM
So my Tung Oil arrived from Amazon, I've used it on a few projects now (http://www.naturalbushcraft.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?2512-Autumn-Winter-Whittlings!) and I like it so far! Doesn't discolour too much, hardens overnight naturally without nasty chemicals making it do so :) .. smells nice, haven't tried using the spoons yet for taste, will report back if it's awful! lol.

Does the Tung oil give a flat or gloss finish on the wood. Personally I think Danish oil gives too high a gloss finish, more like a varnish. It seems to make the wood look a bit "plastickey." I have used it in the past but now prefer a more woody flat finish.

Adam Savage
13-12-2011, 03:08 PM
Does the Tung oil give a flat or gloss finish on the wood. Personally I think Danish oil gives too high a gloss finish, more like a varnish. It seems to make the wood look a bit "plastickey." I have used it in the past but now prefer a more woody flat finish.

Weird. Danish oil contains tung oil (among other things), and it says it gives a low lustre sheen...which I'm guessing means not as shiny. Maybe they make several types, or danish oil covers a wide variety of products?

Woodwose
13-12-2011, 03:43 PM
Adam, there may be different Danish oil products available.
I was given a jar of Danish oil by a mate who makes wooden outdoor furniture. I tried it on a knife handle - one coat leave to dry, then apply another coat. It made the handle really glossy, which is fine if you like a gloss finish, but like I say, to me it looked too manufactured - to not hand made if you get my meaning. You could tell that there was some sort of coating on the wood, which of course there is. The handle just didn't feel right in the hand, a plasticky feel. I now use Carnauba creme wax, just prefer the finish it gives really.

Adam Savage
13-12-2011, 04:16 PM
I know what you mean. A natural finish and feel is far superior. I must admit, I use carnauba wax on occasion, which does give a nice finish.

treefrog
13-12-2011, 06:34 PM
Nobody has mentioned lemon oil; which is probably a good thing. I tried it but found that I didn't like the feeble colour it gave
to wood and also the overpowering lemon smell seems to linger a long time. I think it is a very light oil and probably has the
weakest preservative qualities. Maybe others have had a better experience with it?

Adam Savage
13-12-2011, 08:41 PM
I have used veg oil, which gives a very dark staining effect, but it may turn rancid, if left damp too long.

Izzy
13-12-2011, 09:35 PM
Hi all,

I have always used Tung oil (from Ikea) on all stuff wooden that comes into contact with food, chopping boards, salad tongs, spoons etc and I find it will only darken as much as applying water would and is taint/taste free after soaking in and drying. It also drys to a mat finish that feels comfortable in the hand, I also use it on my Opinel handle after a light sanding.

Hope this is of help, best regards Izzy.

Adam Savage
13-12-2011, 09:41 PM
Very informative Izzy. Thanks for educating us :)

Ashley Cawley
14-12-2011, 08:27 AM
Weird. Danish oil contains tung oil (among other things), and it says it gives a low lustre sheen...which I'm guessing means not as shiny. Maybe they make several types, or danish oil covers a wide variety of products?Yeah I heard that Danish can contain Tung oil but it can also contain nasty chemicals to make it cure/dry faster. I think the composition of it can vary quite a bit so yeah like you say it might cover a wide variety of products.

I've only recently used Danish oil, used it on one feather and it has given it a glossy almost plastic feel, but it's not too bad.

The Tung oil I put on spoons and other things hasn't come up with the same glossy/plasticy finish, which is better.

Adam Savage
14-12-2011, 12:21 PM
Looks like I need to get me some tung oil, with no other additives then :)

Cheers Ash. Soon as I can get back into my workshop/garage, I will grab a handful of offcuts, sand and oil/wax/polish and post some results.

Adam Savage
17-12-2011, 03:56 PM
Here's some of the results, of different finishes, on white oak.

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/projects%20and%20equipment/IMG_0249.jpg

Left is brown Beeswax, centre is raw linseed oil, right is Danish oil, and the piece they are sat on is untreated white oak.

markal17
17-12-2011, 04:55 PM
like the linseed oil on the wood mate
ps empty your in box lol

Adam Savage
17-12-2011, 05:08 PM
like the linseed oil on the wood mate
ps empty your in box lol

They all look pretty much the same to me lol.

Inbox clear mate

Woodwose
17-12-2011, 08:44 PM
Questions :) How many coats of wax/oil did you apply? Do any of them feel different. And finally, what are the pieces of wood for.

Adam Savage
17-12-2011, 09:18 PM
Good questions. The beeswax had three light coats, the linseed and danish oil had one light coat each. The beeswax feels very slightly waxy (as you would expect) and the other two feel like rubbing your finger over paper, if that makes sense. None have been polished with any pads yet, but I only sanded them down to 150g paper, so they wouldn't come up to mirror shine without a good few coats more, and a lot of elbow grease, to fill the grain/sanding scratches/etc.

They are pipe holders I have been trying to master.

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/bushcraft%20locations/oddballs/IMG_0246.jpg

bigzee
17-12-2011, 11:48 PM
I made a chopping board from oak some years ago and thinking that linseed might be inappropriate for food use, put olive into it. This seemed to work ok and after every few washes (with washing up detergent) needed topping up with a bit of kitchen towel soaked in olive oil. Can't afford olive oil now - so use cheap veg oil, but rarely use the board anyway - owing to the concave surface from years of knife work. I think any "cooking" oil would suffice to prevent too much hydration, and create a bit of barrier between food and wood.

Adam Savage
17-12-2011, 11:59 PM
I made a chopping board from oak some years ago and thinking that linseed might be inappropriate for food use, put olive into it. This seemed to work ok and after every few washes (with washing up detergent) needed topping up with a bit of kitchen towel soaked in olive oil. Can't afford olive oil now - so use cheap veg oil, but rarely use the board anyway - owing to the concave surface from years of knife work. I think any "cooking" oil would suffice to prevent too much hydration, and create a bit of barrier between food and wood.

Generally speaking, veg oil and olive oil are meant to go "rancid" after a while, but I have never seen it happen yet. Beech is the best wood to use for chopping boards, as it has natural antibacterial properties :)

bigzee
18-12-2011, 10:54 AM
Generally speaking, veg oil and olive oil are meant to go "rancid" after a while, but I have never seen it happen yet. Beech is the best wood to use for chopping boards, as it has natural antibacterial properties :)
Yeah - and beech is an absolute dream to work with. Also is nice and dense and consistant grain, which would have fewer fissures for bacteria to settle in. I only used oak 'cos that's what I had available after dismantling a wardrobe, and I figured it would at least be more resistant to knife use3299
As for rancid oil, I think on a board that's being washed regularly and having oil re-applied, then it's not going to be a worry. This board's desparately ready for more oil (it's in semi-retirement 'cos the new plastic one is flat!)

Adam Savage
18-12-2011, 10:59 AM
Maybe the article I saw, was more about spoons, where they are constantly being submersed in liquid and exposed to heat?

Fantastic looking board there mate. Nicely done T^

bigzee
18-12-2011, 11:09 AM
Thanks. I suppose heating and cooling is a recipe for bacterial disaster.

Ben Casey
18-12-2011, 12:15 PM
Good questions. The beeswax had three light coats, the linseed and danish oil had one light coat each. The beeswax feels very slightly waxy (as you would expect) and the other two feel like rubbing your finger over paper, if that makes sense. None have been polished with any pads yet, but I only sanded them down to 150g paper, so they wouldn't come up to mirror shine without a good few coats more, and a lot of elbow grease, to fill the grain/sanding scratches/etc.

They are pipe holders I have been trying to master.

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/bushcraft%20locations/oddballs/IMG_0246.jpg

Behave will you I cant keep up LOL Love the work mate :)

Adam Savage
18-12-2011, 02:57 PM
Cheers Ben. Thinking of winding down for the holidays now lol.

Ben Casey
18-12-2011, 05:14 PM
Cheers Ben. Thinking of winding down for the holidays now lol.

Thats good I'm trying to carve a spoon at the min but it looks more like a mallet LOL I will do some pics in a bit :)

Adam Savage
18-12-2011, 05:47 PM
Cool. Look forward to seeing the. I like hammers....I mean, spoons :p