Jakob's "Pedersen Wood Wasp"

[Adam Savage]

I thought I'd keep people updated on Jakob's "Pedersen Wood Wasp" knife build.
Jakob and myself have thrown a few ideas together, to design a new knife. Some of the design inspiration has been taken from other knives, and some is completely new.
As it is being made for Jakob himself, all final decisions are his. After all, you want/need a knife that will work for you :)

Here are some of the CAD designs we made and looked at...

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/projects%20and%20equipment/PedersonWoodWasp001.png

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/projects%20and%20equipment/PedersonWoodWasp002.png

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/projects%20and%20equipment/woodwasptemplate003.png

And the final printable template...

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/projects%20and%20equipment/finaltemplatewoodwasp.png

This is the stage we are at now. An 0-1 steel blank, ready for further machining...

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/projects%20and%20equipment/IMG_0545.jpg

[Tony1948]

Nice budT^

[Silverback]

T^

[AL...]

Bonnie !!


Cheers
AL

[CanadianMike]

Very cool, I just heard about this last night, Jakob replied to an email regarding the Scout knife I'm making for him (the first Scout with linen micarta handles). Have me wondering if I should post a couple pics of it here, since this thread is all about Jakob's new knives........

[AL...]

Daft question :D !!!!!!
Post Lots of pics
Nothin better that a wee bit of knife porn haha

Cheers
AL

[CanadianMike]

Knife porn is always good! :)

[JEEP]

It is going to be so awesome!

The process of designing this knife with Adam has been very pleasant.

I can't wait to hold the final result :)

[Savagewolfrm]

Oh now that's a beaut mate can I just say if Jacob ever returns the knife coz nit quite whàt he wanted can I have first refusal although seeing your work and owning a couple if your fantastic pieces I think he will be most pleased
Well done Adam

[Adam Savage]

Cheers fellas.
Sure you can throw some pics up Mike :), and Rick, you make knives, why would you want another of mine? lol

Forgot to mention, this knife will be dressed in black and yellow Micarta, and live in a custom Kydex sheath :)

[paulthefish2009]

Adam,couple of things, don't mean to rude but whats the thinking behind the "teeth" on the tang? secondly I do think it looks a little weak around the first hole. Please don't think I'm criticising, just took one look at the design and thought it looked a little odd ( to me ). Sorry if I have offended in any way. Paul

[JEEP]

The teeth are purely decorative, they are meant to resemble the cogs of a cogwheel. The handle will allign with the top of the teeth. This should, together with yellow/black micharta scales, give the knife a nice industrial/dieselpunk look.

The blade and tang is 4 mm thick, that ought to hold up just fine.

[paulthefish2009]

Oh now I see Jakob,didn't realise it what so quite thick, now you have explained it I understand the thinking behind it, yeh I like the industrial thing. Ever thought about maybe using carbon fibre for the scales? with titanium pins? ( I work with titanium on a daily basis and would gladly donante some to the project). Paul

[JEEP]

The pins will be carbon fibre :)

Thank you for your offer, but I am not really a fan of the feel of titanium.

[Adam Savage]

What he said lol. Thinking of putting a slightly smaller brass tube, inside the carbon tubes. I think the "yellow" of the brass next to the black carbon, would match the scales quite well. Will make a few pins up to see what they look like first though.

[paulthefish2009]

No problem jakob, the only problem with using carbon as pins is that you wont be able to swell them like a rivet and also carbon looks best when veiwed along the grain rather than end on. Oh if anyone does fancy some titanium (or stainless ) pins let me know, no charge, just postage. Paul

[JEEP]

What he said lol. Thinking of putting a slightly smaller brass tube, inside the carbon tubes. I think the "yellow" of the brass next to the black carbon, would match the scales quite well. Will make a few pins up to see what they look like first though.

I like that idea :)

[Tony1948]

Paul straight bar or pins in handles are mostly for decoration,if you are going to bolt them you use Loveless,Corby,or Acorn bolts on handle scales........:D and epoxy.

[CanadianMike]

No problem jakob, the only problem with using carbon as pins is that you wont be able to swell them like a rivet and also carbon looks best when veiwed along the grain rather than end on. Oh if anyone does fancy some titanium (or stainless ) pins let me know, no charge, just postage. Paul

Hmmmm, what diameter and lengths? I might just take you up on that. ;)

[Adam Savage]

No problem jakob, the only problem with using carbon as pins is that you wont be able to swell them like a rivet and also carbon looks best when veiwed along the grain rather than end on. Oh if anyone does fancy some titanium (or stainless ) pins let me know, no charge, just postage. Paul

Pins don't need swelling. I've never done that with any of mine. The best/neatest way to ensure a good/firm hold, is to cut tiny nicks along the length of the pins (across the narrow way :D). This allows the resin to "bite" and hold everything together :)

[Adam Savage]

Paul straight bar or pins in handles are mostly for decoration,if you are going to bolt them you use Loveless,Corby,or Acorn bolts on handle scales........:D and epoxy.

Or Chicago screws, like the Lofty Wiseman survival tools :).
Talking of which, if anyone is thinking of paying full price for one, think again. The sharpened edge (at the tip end of the spine) can be lethal for certain tasks. Also the beech scales are complete rubbish. They are way too thin and crack. AAAAAND :p...when the scales fall off, you can see they use hardly any adhesive to bond them to the tang. It's not even a proper epoxy, it's like a soft silicone sealant gunk :(

[paulthefish2009]

Ok I understand all that, so if the pins are just decoration then why drill/weaken the knife by drilling holes through it? Paul

[Adam Savage]

I personally wouldn't class them at totally non functional. They do offer a lot of extra strength to the epoxy, by preventing lateral movement under heavy use. :)

[CanadianMike]

Pins don't need swelling. I've never done that with any of mine. The best/neatest way to ensure a good/firm hold, is to cut tiny nicks along the length of the pins (across the narrow way :D). This allows the resin to "bite" and hold everything together :)

Agreed, very coarse sandpaper along the length works like a charm!

Ditto with the pins helping hold handles together, they also increase the surface area the epoxy can grab.

[CanadianMike]

Incoming knife porn!!! Jakob's Scout knife.....

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/305530_283158291768707_117036668380871_604826_6441 59176_n.jpg

[AL...]

You got that right Mike :D
That realy is something mate Well done on an amasing job

Cheers
AL

[paulthefish2009]

Good porn Mike!!T^

[Roadkillphil]

Noice, very noice..... Adams and Mikes creations both :D

[luresalive]

great craftsmanship there!

[JEEP]

Incoming knife porn!!! Jakob's Scout knife.....

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/305530_283158291768707_117036668380871_604826_6441 59176_n.jpg

Wicked awesome!

[Adam Savage]

I do like the bluing you've done on the blade. Looks really neat. Nice work as ever mate :)

[FishyFolk]

It's not the type of knife design I normally like, but this one was nice. Congrats to both maker and owner :-)

[JEEP]

It's not the type of knife design I normally like, but this one was nice. Congrats to both maker and owner :-)

Both knives are very different from the many traditional puukko and leuku I use and own, which is why I wanted to try them out.

The Wood Wasp is a design that I have had ratteling around in the back of my head for a few years; it is meant to be an allround camp/bushcraft knife, equally suited for chopping wood, doing campcrafts and preparing food.

[CanadianMike]

Thanks guys, I'm pretty happy with the way the Scout turned out. Just finished the neck sheath too (OD Kydex with a cord cutter slot), just need to sharpen the blade, minor touch ups, then send it out. Will post a pic of the sheath shortly.

[AL...]

Look forward to it Mike

Cheers
AL

[CanadianMike]

Here ya go then:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/545066_283354108415792_117036668380871_605199_5962 66392_n.jpg

[JEEP]

:jumping-joy:

[CanadianMike]

I had a hard time blackening the brass in the handle, it ended up more antiqued than anything, and was a hard balance to get without soaking too much Brass Black into the micarta. The micarta itself I put a coat of linseed oil on to help seal the linen fibers.

[FishyFolk]

Just out of curiosity, what is the that slit in the sheath for?

[Tony1948]

It's a cord cutter FF.Put cord into slit and it cut's on the bladeT^

[CanadianMike]

Exactly, it's a handy addition for a neck knife, let's you hold the cord with one hand and cut it while holding the knife/sheath, without having to remove the knife and resheathe it. Doesn't matter if the sheath is handle up or handle down, you will at one point need two hands to secure the blade. Also lets you keep the knife/sheath in the back pocket and pull out to cut when needed.

[Adam Savage]

Okay Jakob. File work filed, bevel ground, pin holes drilled, next step hardening :)
Here's a couple pics, with lighting in different places.

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/projects%20and%20equipment/IMG_0546.jpg

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/projects%20and%20equipment/IMG_0547.jpg

[JEEP]

Awshum!

[Adam Savage]

cheers Jakob. Even without the scales on it feels nice to hold :)

[CanadianMike]

Extremely cool! So, are those notches going to get filled in with black epoxy at all? Or will they be exposed (within the handle scales of course) for a textured feel? Might look into what I did, dry graphite lube spray, so far a failure on wear areas, but spray inside the notches before putting the handle on to rustproof the notches. Then again, if you don't plan to fill those notches with epoxy, you'll have a heck of a time clearing the squeezed out epoxy buried within the notches.......

Ugh, getting a headache just thinking about the logistics of clearing the notches free of epoxy! :(

[JEEP]

The notches will be left open for texture :)

[Adam Savage]

I've been thinking about the clearing out of the notches, and have a few ideas rattling about in my head. :confused:

[jus_young]

The notches will be left open for texture :)

I can just picture Adam swearing and cursing after 6 hours of clearing notches and only getting half way through :D

Honestly, I feel sorry for you and you haven't even started yet!

[ssmithy]

Looking good cant wait to see the finished knife.

[Adam Savage]

The yellow and black Micarta is now in the press, so should be ready to use in a couple days. Still need to harden the blade and temper it, which should be done tomorrow (weather should be safe enough to use electricity outdoors :)).
Will knock up some black fibre liners either tomorrow or Thursday, then it won't be too long before the knife is ready for a Kydex overcoat :D.

[JEEP]

Sweet!

[Adam Savage]

All hardened and tempered now. Clean up and final grind tomorrow, then fabrication of fibre liners :)

[Adam Savage]

Knife is just about finished now. Needs a little blacking in the "cogs" and a little more smoothing, then it's onto the sheath.

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/projects%20and%20equipment/IMG_0570.jpg

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/projects%20and%20equipment/IMG_0569.jpg

[AL...]

Well smart!! :)


Cheers
AL

[rich290185]

Nice!!!!

[CanadianMike]

Very cool job! :D

[Adam Savage]

Thanks guys. Should look a lot better when it's all finished :)

[JEEP]

T^

[Tony1948]

Nice work AdamT^

[Adam Savage]

Thanks Tony. I have a couple Mora Laplander blades to handle. Do you have any suggestions on wood types, that would make them look as good as yours?

[Adam Savage]

Kydex part of the sheath made, just needs a quick clean up with acetone. Leather part left to do, then we're all finished :)


http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y304/crazysaint22/projects%20and%20equipment/IMG_0628.jpg

[CanadianMike]

Nice one! Is that the thinner (0.060") kydex? Looks like it due to the way it formed like a glove around the knife, the stuff I mostly use doesn't take that much of a shape.

BTW, question, do you find formed kydex easily scratches the blade? I do, driving me nuts on how to fix it without making the knife too loose, even a couple layers of painters tape while forming (to add a bit of clearance) causes some scratching after forming, biggest pain in the butt is on blued blades, wears the bluing off in odd places.

[Adam Savage]

It's 0.08" (2mm), I just "cooked" it for 10 minutes at 250°F, making it nice and soft, then clamping my press really tight. I spray a light coating of WD40 on the blade before pressing, which seems to stop scratching. I guess it lets it slip just enough. Before the WD, I clean the Kydex with industrial acetone, to make sure there's no grit on it. Like I said, it seems to work for me, but I don't put a mirror finish on my blades, so scratching wouldn't show up too much anyway.

[CanadianMike]

Might try a couple of those suggestions, I did mean after repeated unsheath/sheath actions. I do wash the interior with some pressure to clear out any metal or emery bits stuck inside, but guess because of the finishes I put on the blade, they are more showing of debris wear.

[treefrog]

Adam, that knife is a work of art, great talent there.
And you too, Mike....that pornographic scout knife is bitchin'.

[JEEP]

Can't wait to get my grubby hands on it...

[RobbC]

BTW, question, do you find formed kydex easily scratches the blade? I do, driving me nuts on how to fix it without making the knife too loose, even a couple layers of painters tape while forming (to add a bit of clearance) causes some scratching after forming, biggest pain in the butt is on blued blades, wears the bluing off in odd places.

This probably wont work, but ive not finished a knife let alone worked with kydex. What about is you formed it before you finish the knife? Like before you put a mirror shine on it etc. or just after you have put that rough edge before heat treatment?

Edit- almost forgot, beautiful work Adam! :)

[Adam Savage]

Thanks guys.

[CanadianMike]

This probably wont work, but ive not finished a knife let alone worked with kydex. What about is you formed it before you finish the knife? Like before you put a mirror shine on it etc. or just after you have put that rough edge before heat treatment?

Edit- almost forgot, beautiful work Adam! :)

Won't take off enough material to clear the surface. Like said, I put a couple layers of painter tape over the blade and then stick it into the warm kydex, so that gives a bit of play between the steel and the kydex, but it's after when done and ready to ship, I find a few cycles of sheathing marks the blade slightly, even after a good bath. I'd like to line the kydex with something, but that's a tall order between wearing off exposing adheasive, or wearing through and exposing adheasive. Tough balance really.

[Adam Savage]

talking of lining Kydex, I tried to line Jakob's with yellow felt, but the fibrous nature of the felt meant it didn't adhere very well, and it looked like it would retain moisture next to the blade too. I have lined sheaths with leather from motorcycle pants before, but only for an iPhone sheath, so no sharp edges to cut into the leather. The search for a good liner continues lol.

[Tony1948]

Are they full or rat tail tang blades.Mine are rat tail and I use a mix of bone, wood,antler,brass and leather or just all antler.

[Tony1948]

4575457645774578All the same blades but the handles are a bit different,I get most of my stuff off ebay.The wood is pear.

[Tony1948]

4579Part of the post above.

[Adam Savage]

They are the Mora Scandvik 12c27 like this...

http://www.ronniesunshines.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/img_1530.jpg

I don't really want to use brass for the bolster, but I could use a different wood without too much hassle :)

[Adam Savage]

Fantastic work by the way. There's something very special about your knives. T^

[Tony1948]

Thanks,I'v done two of them,one in wood ,a peace of oak flooring and the other was buffalo horn.Nice blades,only trouble I had with them the holes are not in the right place's and steel so hard.

[Adam Savage]

I'll have a play around with them, and post some pics of the results. Thanks for letting me know about the holes.