What should be my next blade?

[FishyFolk]

My knife collection leaves much to be desired.
Well, I do own some pretty expensive knives. The problem is that they are at the house in Thailand.

Here in Norway I am left with these:

A chinese copy of the Bear Grylls Bailey knife...yes it's a disgrace, but I had no idea who Bear Grylls was, nor that it was supposed to cost the same as my first car
when I bought it. I just happened to like the way it looked, so I got it...and it is actually not a bad knife, as mine is well fitted, holds a good edge while easy to set up. I was really lucky with that purchase. But still...little bit embarased to own it.
Specially know when I make these bumbling about stuff on YT. :ashamed:

+ A couple of Mora knives....711, 2000, 120 etc....

That's it.

So I have done my research. I have owned a few Helle knives in the past. They are not bad, so my first candidates are all Helle knives...

1. The Helle GT (http://www.helle.no/products/knives/helle-gt/http://), beutiful, but perhaps to large for a bushcraft knife?. But then, the Mora 711 could easily step into the role of most of the smaller knives if I need a smaller blade.
2. The Tamagami (http://www.helle.no/products/knives/temagami/)( weary of this one. Don't really wan't another superstar knife, real or fake...but it's a good one me thinks, and I like the thats it's almost a full tang knife.)
3. The Helle Eggen (http://www.helle.no/products/knives/eggen/)

Now you know the designs I like. Perhaps you have other suggestions. But I may just end up buying a Leuko, as that size is completely missing from my knife set up at the moment...
But for know I am going trough this excercise as I may end up having the money to get both. Working on a little project that will put some extra pocket money in my secret jar in the shed *evil grin*

[luresalive]

Helle's have a reputation for breaking ,the tang is very thin and where it joins the blade proper is often a weak spot.

[FishyFolk]

Helle's have a reputation for breaking ,the tang is very thin and where it joins the blade proper is often a weak spot.

They are like any other traditional scandinavian/nordic knife. Most of them are rat tail tangs. Traditionally they are whitling and hunting knives (or for the odd knife fight at weddings and funerals :zombie-fighting: ), not axes, prybars or chissels. Tradtionally scandinavian knives also have thin blades because of their intended role. Use them for something else than they are intended for that they are gonna break. Thats why axes, prybars and chissels are invented. And having left those at home, i'd rather use a 3,49£ Mora knife as a substitute for those, than any other knife, even if my "good" knife could handle it. So that does not really worry me.

What do you think about the Temagami, and do you have a better choice than the Helle? I am open to all suggestions.

[RobbC]

JEEP did a fantastic and detailed review on the Temagami, you should check it out :)

Hope that helps, Robb

[FishyFolk]

JEEP did a fantastic and detailed review on the Temagami, you should check it out :)

Hope that helps, Robb

Thanks RobBc,

I remember seeing it before. Will check it out again. There is a new version of it out now BTW.

Else I have a new candidate. I will probably pick up a Leuko from Knivsmed strømeng anyway. That will be my backpack knife, will use it mostly for chopping firewood, branches for shelters etc.
I have always had one and mine is in Thailand. ( yes I brought a knife). Anyway, I have singled out the Knivsmed Strømeng 9" Leuko in the "Old fashion" series. Mainly I chose the old fashion as it has a
carbon steel blade. And I like that it is produced using some of the traditional methods. Besides the Stainless steel Strømeng blades I find hard to sharpen...

Anyway, if i am going for for a Strømeng as a Leuko, I am thinking why not stay on that path, and get a Buhkku as my "Bushcraft" knife. So I checked their websiste and found this, and I am in love as far as looks goes. But I don't like the stainless blade, so I am thinking... so the Helle knives are definatley still in the running...as well as any other knife that may get sugested by the people in here :-)
Anyway here is the Strømeng Knivsmed STAK Buhkku

4590

[RobbC]

Are they doing the new one in carbon steel? Because i really like the look of the knife, but i wouldnt buy a stainless one :(

Robb

[FishyFolk]

Are they doing the new one in carbon steel? Because i really like the look of the knife, but i wouldnt buy a stainless one :(

Robb

I have fired off an email to ask Helle. Will report back when they answer :-)

[Dan XF]

Ihave to say that the Enzo knives are great value. I have a trapper95 with the D2 blade and for the price it cant be beat. However the knives made by Duncan at dorsetwoodlandblades.co.uk are just sublime. I have an XL DJP and it is a thing of beauty. As he custom makes them you can have it made to your own spec or just buy the blade and finish it off yourself.

[JEEP]

My main users are the Helle Temagami (carbon) and an 8" Knivsmed Strømeng Leuku

Hands down the Helle Temagami is the best knife I have ever owned - though I expect that to change as soon as I receive my Woodwasp from Adam (Crazysaint) :)

I bring my Strømeng leuku for short hikes or when I want to leave the axe at home. It is a very nice and versatile tool - and it is my favourite bushcraft tool. All the Strømeng leukus are carbon steel btw, it is only their smaller hunting knives, like the STAK, that come with stainless steel blades. I have a STAK as well, it is very nice, but I haven't gotten around to actually use it yet.

I will receive my Woodwasp from Adam soon, maybe you should wait for my review, before you decide which knife to get ;)

[Roadkillphil]

Adam savage Woodbee ;)

Here's mine

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7081/7236406286_f173763796.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/7904270@N07/7236406286/)
Adam Savage Woodbee (http://www.flickr.com/photos/7904270@N07/7236406286/) by roadkillphil (http://www.flickr.com/people/7904270@N07/), on Flickr

Full tang, ansum filework, spalted beech scales, brass liners, mosaic pins, dangly sheath and a matching spalted beech handled firesteel. All made to order with fantastic design collaberation between me n he :D PM Crazysaint222 or check out his website (http://www.savagebushcraft.co.uk/knives-for-sale.php) Or wait and see how Jacobs Woodwasp handles (smooth I reckon :D )

Ansum :D

[FishyFolk]

Adam savage Woodbee ;)

Here's mine

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7081/7236406286_f173763796.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/7904270@N07/7236406286/)
Adam Savage Woodbee (http://www.flickr.com/photos/7904270@N07/7236406286/) by roadkillphil (http://www.flickr.com/people/7904270@N07/), on Flickr

Full tang, ansum filework, spalted beech scales, brass liners, mosaic pins, dangly sheath and a matching spalted beech handled firesteel. All made to order with fantastic design collaberation between me n he :D PM Crazysaint222 or check out his website (http://www.savagebushcraft.co.uk/knives-for-sale.php) Or wait and see how Jacobs Woodwasp handles (smooth I reckon :D )

Ansum :D

Thats very nice Phil, but I can probably not afford one...even if I throw in my Leuku budget :-)

The budget is 100£ for the bushcraft knife, and the Temagami is less than that here in Norway :-)

[FishyFolk]

My main users are the Helle Temagami (carbon) and an 8" Knivsmed Strømeng Leuku

Hands down the Helle Temagami is the best knife I have ever owned - though I expect that to change as soon as I receive my Woodwasp from Adam (Crazysaint) :)

I bring my Strømeng leuku for short hikes or when I want to leave the axe at home. It is a very nice and versatile tool - and it is my favourite bushcraft tool. All the Strømeng leukus are carbon steel btw, it is only their smaller hunting knives, like the STAK, that come with stainless steel blades. I have a STAK as well, it is very nice, but I haven't gotten around to actually use it yet.

I will receive my Woodwasp from Adam soon, maybe you should wait for my review, before you decide which knife to get ;)


Thanks for that, Jeep.

I had to recheck the website, and there is a few more in stainless from Strømeng. Mainly their smaller Leukus. (5" and down. But those are childrens Leukus, so maybe thats something to do with it.
But I am after a very grown up 9" leuku. So maybe I should just go for the 750 NOK one I saw for sale right here in town then. If it really is true that hey are all carbon, then I could just give it the old
vinegar treatment to give it some patina, and rust protect it some.

[FishyFolk]

Ihave to say that the Enzo knives are great value. I have a trapper95 with the D2 blade and for the price it cant be beat. However the knives made by Duncan at dorsetwoodlandblades.co.uk are just sublime. I have an XL DJP and it is a thing of beauty. As he custom makes them you can have it made to your own spec or just buy the blade and finish it off yourself.

They probably are, but I can't afford it....

[CanadianMike]

Adam savage Woodbee ;)

Here's mine

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7081/7236406286_f173763796.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/7904270@N07/7236406286/)
Adam Savage Woodbee (http://www.flickr.com/photos/7904270@N07/7236406286/) by roadkillphil (http://www.flickr.com/people/7904270@N07/), on Flickr

Full tang, ansum filework, spalted beech scales, brass liners, mosaic pins, dangly sheath and a matching spalted beech handled firesteel. All made to order with fantastic design collaberation between me n he :D PM Crazysaint222 or check out his website (http://www.savagebushcraft.co.uk/knives-for-sale.php) Or wait and see how Jacobs Woodwasp handles (smooth I reckon :D )

Ansum :D

Adam did such an amazing with that knife!!!

[FishyFolk]

Well, the Leuku is is in da house. Pressented it at the "What have you bought now thread", and will be making a review once the rain stops...

Still agonizing over what bushcraft knife, if any to get. Been hard using my chinese knife over the last few days and I like it more and more...so perhaps a simillar design with a scandi grind 8this one has a hollow grind with a secondary bevel).

[Tiley]

Another vote for the carbon steel Helle Temagami. If you want a handmade number, Toby Platts of TP knives makes very beautiful blades extremely well. Have a look at www.tpknives.com ...

[FishyFolk]

I am still thinking. The carbon blade Tamagami is what I want if to buy one. They make it but don't sell it in many places, and made me an offer of 1200 NOK for the Carbon....I can get the old version in stainless for 899 NOK.

But do I really need a full tang blade. If the answer is no, I may go for a GT or an Alden...both lovely blades. The jury is still out, meanwhile I have fun with my Stuorniibi :-)

I'd love to own a custom blade, but I can't justify to spend that kind of money on a knife.

[AL...]

I know what ye mean FF Its my 50th in October and Im sorta tryin to get a custom knife . It will be the one and only that I buy.
Just lookin round the internet droolin and falling over at some of the prices. But then again it is a one off blade thats gonna last me the rest of my life or thats the plan lol

Cheers
AL

[FishyFolk]

But then again it is a one off blade thats gonna last me the rest of my life or thats the plan lol

Cheers
AL

I am sure Jeep once said that about kit...

[JEEP]

I still do...

Btw. I would contact Adam or Mike and have one of them make you one of their woodlore "clones". Custom does not have to be expensive, not with these two gentlemen around.

[AL...]

That might be a good idea Jakob :)
I got a fair few Brownie points built up latley :D

Cheers
AL

[ChristerM]

You could buy the ENZO blade, and make the knife yourself.... That would NOT blow any budgets... :D
You can get the blades from around 350,- NOK from Finland... And I have some VERY nice scales I can donate, if you promise to show pictures of the knife here... :D
(Blade, rivets, vulcanfiber etc comes to around 450,- NOK depending on the blade.... )

[FishyFolk]

You could buy the ENZO blade, and make the knife yourself.... That would NOT blow any budgets... :D
You can get the blades from around 350,- NOK from Finland... And I have some VERY nice scales I can donate, if you promise to show pictures of the knife here... :D
(Blade, rivets, vulcanfiber etc comes to around 450,- NOK depending on the blade.... )

I have a couple of handfulls of Thumbs...

But this is interesting, and building a knife is something I want to learn. What model of the Enzo knives will the scales fit?

[ChristerM]

I have used them on Elver and Trapper blades.
The scales are curly birch (Valbjørk) with a VERY nice and rich pattern... :)

[FishyFolk]

If you can tell me excactly what to get to complete the knife, and what tools I would need, i may just go for it. :-)
(I need a parts list)

I have found a O1 steel Trapper blade (https://www.brisa.fi/portal/index.php?option=com_oscommerce&osMod=product_info&cPath=119_112&products_id=793) for 36 EUR

[ChristerM]

All you need, is 2 rivets (Corby 1/4), some liner material, (I use 0.8mm vulcanfiber) 2 drillbits (4,6 and 6,3) glue (Araldit) and sandpaper...
You'll find the rivets under "ENZO hardware & parts" They also have a coutersink, but you don't really need that. Especially if you are only making one knife...
BUT... it might come in handy if you don't have the proper drillbits... :)

[FishyFolk]

All you need, is 2 rivets (Corby 1/4), some liner material, (I use 0.8mm vulcanfiber) 2 drillbits (4,6 and 6,3) glue (Araldit) and sandpaper...
You'll find the rivets under "ENZO hardware & parts" They also have a coutersink, but you don't really need that. Especially if you are only making one knife...
BUT... it might come in handy if you don't have the proper drillbits... :)

Okay, drill bits make me nervous. That means I have to drill holes in the scales? If so thats where my thumbs come in to play. I don't think i will be able to do a very good job of this...specially since I have a wobly, 200 kr drill i got at Europris....

[Tony1948]

Hi FF that enzo is a good blade.Things you'll need,epoxy the stuff that takes atime to go off,liners,wood scales,pins and land yard tube,adrill,vice or clamps to hold scales a harf round file,sand papper and some oil for the handle and time take you'r time.

[ChristerM]

No worries about the holes... Use the blade itself as a template, clamp it to the scale and drill through the hole in the blade... ;) then do the same on the other scale... That Europris drill will do the job, just take your time, and try to keep it straight... The scales are only about 10 mm each, so it's not a problem... :)

[FishyFolk]

Hi FF that enzo is a good blade.Things you'll need,epoxy the stuff that takes atime to go off,liners,wood scales,pins and land yard tube,adrill,vice or clamps to hold scales a harf round file,sand papper and some oil for the handle and time take you'r time.

It's the drilling that makes me nervous...how do I know where to drill f.ex? They do sell a set that is pre- drilled...i.e no drilling on my part. And since it comes with a sheath it. it will actually save me a few NOK...

[FishyFolk]

I looked at it, and even with a free set of scales from you , it all comes to around 85 EURO icluding shipping...That is including a bushcraft sheeth (20 euro)
But I can get a full set for, with all the parts I need, including curly birch scales for 54 euro. That includes a sheath as well and shipping at 8,40 euro....so I think I will go for that.
Even if I add that Bushcraft sheet, I come out even. But perhaps someone else wants those scales?


Thanks for your time and the idea :-)

[FishyFolk]

Thats done then...ordered this set :-)
Knife building for dummies I hope....

https://www.brisa.fi/portal/index.php?option=com_oscommerce&osMod=product_info&cPath=119_103_133&products_id=715

[Tony1948]

4690469146924693 Just take you'r time and you'll get a knife that will last you a life time and you'r boys.

[ChristerM]

No worries! :)
Make the sheet yourself too... :D Kind of goes with the territory... ;)
And it is a lot easier than it looks... :D

[AL...]

Beautiful work Tony :D

Cheers
AL

[FishyFolk]

4690469146924693 Just take you'r time and you'll get a knife that will last you a life time and you'r boys.


Thats some very, very nice knives, specially the last one!


No worries! :)
Make the sheet yourself too... :D Kind of goes with the territory... ;)
And it is a lot easier than it looks... :D

I ended up ordring this sheat. I like that style :-)

https://www.brisa.fi/portal/index.php?option=com_oscommerce&osMod=product_info&cPath=276_69&products_id=3961

[CanadianMike]

Drilling is easy, just takes a bit of planing and set up. I lay my knife on the scale, draw an outline with enough material ahead of where I want it to meet the blade (to shape), then use double sided tape to secure the blade to the one scale, and drill my holes. Then, I take the blade off and put the second scale on the drilled one, secure with double sided tape and use the first as a template, drill through the second, gives you a perfectly lined up set of holes. After that you mark where you want to grind the blade end of the scales, sand away, then get ready to epoxy them on. Rather easy overall. ;)

[jbrown14]

Just take you'r time and you'll get a knife that will last you a life time and you'r boys.

As always, I loooove your knives, Tony. I never noticed the tree on that sheath before, absolutely lovely.

[FishyFolk]

I think I can safely announce that Brisa, that makes the Enzo Trapper has their customer service nailed. Forgot to order the brass tube for the lanyard hole (it's extra) for the kit. Remembered half hour ago, and wrote an email to ask if it is in the kit, or I have to order extra, and if so, can they please add to my shipment. Did not expect an answer until Monday....but he answered right away, and promised to add one to my shipment free of charge. Well, it's a 1,3£ part. But still, they could and probably should have charged for it. But did not. That is first rate in my book :-)

Also, will make a video once the goodies arrive from Sauna land. Got the title allready:

"I do stuff I don't know how to do - Assembling an Enzo Trapper knife"

[FishyFolk]

Drilling is easy, just takes a bit of planing and set up. I lay my knife on the scale, draw an outline with enough material ahead of where I want it to meet the blade (to shape), then use double sided tape to secure the blade to the one scale, and drill my holes. Then, I take the blade off and put the second scale on the drilled one, secure with double sided tape and use the first as a template, drill through the second, gives you a perfectly lined up set of holes. After that you mark where you want to grind the blade end of the scales, sand away, then get ready to epoxy them on. Rather easy overall. ;)

Thanks for the know-how :-)

I will have to drill a lanyard hole, if I can work up the courage :-)

[Tony1948]

Hi FF I dont think you will be able to drill a lanyard hole if it has'ant already got one,the blade will be to hard,I had the same trouble with my Mora full tang blank,I could'ant even enlarge the back hole it just burnt the dill tip off.............good luck with it.

[FishyFolk]

I am in luck as the tang already has the lanyard hole. I only have to drill the scales. This is what I am scared of, as I am not very good at making stuff look good (to my wives despair)...

[markal17]

if you want a great knife that will last for a very long time then crazysaint is the person to get it from iv got 3 knifes that get used every day they will not let you down if you talk to him he might be able to help you get the kife that is what you need more than what you want great knife maker and a great guy to do business with


ps iv order knife no4 a little
neck knife great bit of kit

[FishyFolk]

if you want a great knife that will last for a very long time then crazysaint is the person to get it from iv got 3 knifes that get used every day they will not let you down if you talk to him he might be able to help you get the kife that is what you need more than what you want great knife maker and a great guy to do business with


ps iv order knife no4 a little
neck knife great bit of kit

I am aware of the excellent knife makers on here. However if I am going to get myself a custom knife, I wan't it to be something special, and that takes more money than I have.
So i have ordered the Enzo trapper as a kit. That way I'll learn a little about how to assemble a knife, so that when the day comes and I have the funds...I'll know more about these things when i do comission someone to make the knife of a lifetime for me...

[FishyFolk]

Ordered on saturday....the knife now sits at the post office in Tempere Finland.

Can someone please explain to me why I feel like a kid waiting for Santa to pop down the chimney with my pressents?
(We have milk and cookies in the house, I just checked, although the traditional dish here in the land of fjords is to scoff him off with a bowl of porridge)

[jus_young]

Its called Shiney Kit Syndrome. There is no cure :D

[AL...]

Sooo very true :D

Cheers
AL

[FishyFolk]

Me and the knife is now in the same country. Alas it is now in the hands of our customs officers. Norwegians are more afraid of those people than they are of terrorists...

Anyway that means I have to add 25% V.A.T to what I have paid for it, plus a customs fee...but that was expected. :guns:

[FishyFolk]

Well, while the forum was down i got the Enzo trapper kit And I love it. have assemembled it, and it turned out beautiful. Have put it trough it's paces, but have not taken pictures or filmed it as the teenager has been using my camera this week for a school project...

Anyway, it was quite easy to asemble, and just needed minimum work on the scales to finish.

So far used it to whittle a walking staff for myself, and cutting some resin of a spruce tree, as well as just some "I-am-bored-so lets-make-some round-sticks". I won't baton with this thing. I have a Leuku for small wood, and an axe for bigger. And I am sure It can be done in a pinch, but the blade is a tad short

Anyway, some heavy cross grain twist whitling saw some minor signs of rolling of the O1 tool steel knife edge. It's scandi grind to zero says Brisa, but it's got a micro secondary bevel. I think I will keep it that way. Just a few strokes of stropping using the back of my belt, and it was laser sharp again. And this was after 3 days of quite heavy use.

I won't baton this knife. I don't like to do it, and I have other knives I can use for that. Or preferably I use an axe...

The blade is quite short. A little shorter than the Mora 711 even. And the scales are a tad too thin for a bushcraft knife. Perhaps because the Trapper is a hunting knife, and they use the pinch grip a lot.
Also with a push stroke...by that I mean when you use the palm of your hand to push down on the blade when taking of strips of wood, is a no go on this knife. I did it, and have a nice nick in my palm as the tip dug in...lol

So for that reasons I will chose a Enzo Camper if I go for an Enzo next time...but still, the Trapper does a very good job of replacing the Mora 711's job in my knife collection, and I love it to bits. I just have to get used to the short blade. I usually chose longer blades...12cm and up.

Pictures tomorrow when I have the camera charged up, and the kid has removed his pictures from the memory thing...

[FishyFolk]

Well it's allready tomorrow, so here is the pictures....

Knife in sheath with Fire steel. made the fire steel handle myself
4728

Knife and sheath
4729

Knife and sheath, with dangler.
4730

4732


Sheath that comes with the knife. Also a nice sheath, but I wanted a fire steel loop....
4731

[CanadianMike]

Anyway, some heavy cross grain twist whitling saw some minor signs of rolling of the O1 tool steel knife edge....

That should NOT happen with a blade made of O-1, either the edge has been ground way too thin or it has been improperly heat treated/tempered, resulting in an edge that will roll and stay that way (especially when cutting hardwood). One thing I do with my O-1 knives, once I get an edge on it, is place the edge on the cast alloy table of my drillpress, push down with a few pounds of pressure til I see the table edge shape the knife edge by pressing through showing me this ^, and drag the knife edge along the table edge from stern to bow. Too soft will make the edge roll, too hard and it will chip. Luckily every knife I've done this to has the dimple showing all along the edge, and the edge itself bends back straight immediately after.

One other cause of it rolling, not mentioned too often, is that after heat treating, the edge hasn't had the decarbonized part ground away to expose the 'good stuff', and because the carbon at the edge has been burned off, it will not harden. A couple of my early knives (fall 2010) showed this failure, square off the edge a bit and resharpen, the strength was exposed.

Just a few tips from my own screw ups..... ;)

[AL...]

Great Job FF
Its a thing of beauty mate well done on a job well done.

Cheers
AL

[FishyFolk]

Perhaps I am using the wrong term Mike. It's not that serious. It just felt slightly less sharp really. and was fixed with 1 minute of stropping. I think thats quite acceptable after 3 days of quite hard use. :-)

If anything, the knife was even sharper than before after I did that. So it could be that what I felt was the leftover of the raw edge, that was not completely stropped away by the factory...
But Virtovice mentioned during his test of the D2 steel version that the D2 version will chip against bone (he test his knives by slaughtering deer he he kills while hunting). and that O1 tool steel will roll), but then bone is a lot harder than wood...This is why he convex grind all his hunting knives, and put a micro bevel on his scandigrind knives.

[JEEP]

Nice one Fishy T^