A question for the knife guys

[treefrog]

A local trapper put me onto these ceramic rod sharpeners; says they're great for quick blade touch-ups...


http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo345/barefoot_01/LSTB2D2C.jpg


My question is: can you use these with scandi grind knives?

Jack.


(Sorry about the ridiculuosly large image; I give up trying to understand computers.)

[Primerib]

Why not? I don't have any experience with this sharpener but i use the standard lansky sharpener with the hones, metal rods and clamp. I use that on all my knives flatground, scandiground and hollowground. I have never really asked myself the question if I should but the results speak for its self...the blades shave the hairs on my arm effortlessly. although i recommend a leather strop with some chromeoxide (or pumapaste) for perfect results. The strop is usually the method of choice for a touch up.

I think spyderco was first to develop a sharpener of this style. but it has triangular rods made of ceramic.

edit: yeah...called the spyderco sharpmaker! Has lots of fans! There are a bunch of videos on youtube if you need further information!

[luresalive]

They will put a micro bevel on a scandi, just Like a mora has, but if you want to keep a zero grind scandi sharp the rods will have to be at the exact angle of the bevel,and they most likely won't be.

[JonnyP]

You certainly can use those rods on a Scandi blade, but if you use the sharpener as its intended you will get a secondary bevel. Wether you want that or not I don't know. A secondary bevel will strengthen the edge and many peoples general Bushcraft knives have a secondary bevel, but its not great for all uses, like wood carving.

[treefrog]

Thanks for the answers, guys. That was pretty much what I suspected...it would put a secondary bevel on it. And that's okay,
but if these rods are just for touch-up sharpening, then when i go back to the waterstone, it would have to be honed back to zero grind.
Maybe that's not a problem?

[FishyFolk]

I prefer the water stone and a leather paddle strop. Works a lot faster for me, but it took a few tries and errors before I found a way that worked for me. Tried some alternatives like this one but was never happy with the results. But then I am a bumbler...

[treefrog]

I prefer the water stone and a leather paddle strop. Works a lot faster for me, but it took a few tries and errors before I found a way that worked for me. Tried some alternatives like this one but was never happy with the results. But then I am a bumbler...

I agree, Rune. Up till now I've been using just the waterstone and strop and I find it does a good job even for a guy like me who isn't Mr. Precision.
This idea about the ceramic rods was just to have them right there at the skinning table for a five-second touch-up as needed.

[CanadianMike]

Jack, that's the set I have, and is the last part in my sharpening steps. They are just hones, not for sharpening, you'll need a burr on your edge from sharpening in order for these to work.

And ignore the angles in the wood, I set my own angle with them, the wooden block is just a holder for them. You can use them just as effectively by holding one rod in your hand and running your edge over it. This set is highly recommended, especially since you can separate the rods and carry one or two in a pouch or pocket.

BTW, I rarely use the white rods, too fine.

[treefrog]

Thanks for the clarification, Mike. It's always been a problem for me to keep knives sharp for skinning; in the past I have adapted to using semi-dull
knives just because I never really had the knack to keep them sharp. Now that I'm older and wiser I thought I should make the effort to try
something new. I'll take all the advice given and try it out...hopefully it will make a difference.

[CanadianMike]

All good, and ya, pick that set up, you'll find it very handy to have on the skinning bench for quick touch ups. You'll learn the feel of the right angle pretty quickly.