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View Full Version : And now for my next knife project.......



CanadianMike
07-01-2011, 11:07 PM
Hey guys,

Figured I might as well start a thread on this project and provide pics for the progress I make.

After quite a few Japanese style tanto blades and tactical knives the past couple months, it's time to get back on track for why I started to learn how to make knives in the first place, bushcraft style knives. Yes, I went for the typical common design.

So, here's the first pic of many. I slimmed out the potbelly on the handle and adjusted the pommell a bit after this pic, so I'll likely go with it once I cut it out and transfer to plastic (because I want a lasting template). The spalted maple above the design I came across while buying more rosewood, so I grabbed it up too and it's inspired me to get my butt in gear and make my best knife yet. And, also made my first mosaic pins yesterday, turned out rather nice for first try.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs776.ash1/166669_492192329206_510619206_5728919_6760066_n.jp g

Fletching
07-01-2011, 11:49 PM
Ooh, I'm drooling already. Never made a knife myself but seen some being forged...keep the details coming CanadianMike!

Steve

CanadianMike
08-01-2011, 01:30 AM
That's the planistan! Since I've contributed to knife making threads on here, I might as well put my money where my mouth is and document the progress from start to finish a knife and sheath I make.

I traced out this knife I made back in early October (was roughly the fifth knife I made, which was about eight knives ago...), and added a half inch on either end, then started designing what I'm now happy with).
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs838.snc4/69816_447778084206_510619206_5061739_4096352_n.jpg

Newly cut out tweaked knife design, and one of the two mosaic pins I made for it (funny how I made the pins first, but was something new to me I wanted to set my hand to, two aluminum, two brass and one small steel rods in the 9/32" brass tube).

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs047.snc6/167731_492963179206_510619206_5740486_3590607_n.jp g

paul standley
08-01-2011, 09:50 AM
You guys are all inspiring me to make my first knife but how do you all find the time, you're obviously all better at time management than me because by the time i've watched my soaps in the evening and had my lie in's on a Saturday and Sunday morning there's just no time left... what am I doing wrong ?.

The pins are slick by the way, a very clever idea. Got any larger images of the pins Mike ?

I think I'd be OK with the metal work and woodwork, got the tools and hand-skills for that but I'd really like to follow you when you get to the sheath cus leather work looks really hard to do properly to get a professional looking job.

Paul.

Fletching
08-01-2011, 10:30 AM
I'm going to give the leatherwork a go too. Here's my first info on the subject - feel free to comment on tools etc. CanadianMike!

Steve

Fletching
08-01-2011, 10:30 AM
Here's the thread:

http://www.naturalbushcraft.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?455-Leatherworking-Kit-from-Japan&p=3870#post3870

Steve

CanadianMike
08-01-2011, 06:07 PM
I'm going to give the leatherwork a go too. Here's my first info on the subject - feel free to comment on tools etc. CanadianMike!

Steve

Lol, that's very much the same type of tools I use, of which I added in a couple others in the leather thread on this forum, included pics and description of what they do. Leatherwork isn't that difficult really, it all comes down to the planning, try pattern out on paper or cardboard, tweak it as needed, trace onto leather, prep work, groove it, mark it for thread holes, do anything that requires sewing inside the sheath first (such as belt loop), then do the rest up, add the doubler so the blade won't cut the stitching, etc. Expect a few screw ups for the first few sheaths you make, screw ups are good if you learn from them.

Fletching
08-01-2011, 06:29 PM
Thanks. How wide should you make ones doubler?

CanadianMike
08-01-2011, 06:30 PM
You guys are all inspiring me to make my first knife but how do you all find the time, you're obviously all better at time management than me because by the time i've watched my soaps in the evening and had my lie in's on a Saturday and Sunday morning there's just no time left... what am I doing wrong ?.

The pins are slick by the way, a very clever idea. Got any larger images of the pins Mike ?

I think I'd be OK with the metal work and woodwork, got the tools and hand-skills for that but I'd really like to follow you when you get to the sheath cus leather work looks really hard to do properly to get a professional looking job.

Paul.

Had flash issues with closer ones, so took a pic while outside, turned out a bit better.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs762.ash1/165354_493290404206_510619206_5745175_269405_n.jpg

luresalive
08-01-2011, 07:54 PM
Cracking job there..

paul standley
08-01-2011, 08:06 PM
Cheers Mike, yes, I can see how you did the pins now, like this a lot. Did you fill in with epoxy ?

CanadianMike
08-01-2011, 08:30 PM
Ya, just try out the different rods in a pattern you like, helps to have them tightish against each other, sand down one end to see the spacing properly, clean up the edges by deburring, then press in as much cold weld epoxy as you want, let set and sand after. Found doing one end first worked best, as I'd position everything so I liked it, tried the other end and found the first end had moved. So I did these one end at a time just to avoid the movement.

CanadianMike
09-01-2011, 03:10 PM
Thanks. How wide should you make ones doubler?

At least half an inch. Is ok if you let some stick out, you can clean that off (cutting and sanding) once you've got the edge sewn up.

Got the bevel started last night, my previous knife like this has a 22 degree bevel, this one I'm going with 14 degrees, most of the recent knives I've made have this on it and they cut really well.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs784.ash1/167452_493417454206_510619206_5746919_531926_n.jpg

paul standley
09-01-2011, 08:27 PM
Mike, How do you set up to hold the bevel angle, do you do it by feel/sight or do you have a jig to hold 14 degrees ? - Paul

Tony1948
09-01-2011, 09:20 PM
Paul, have you got the tenplate i sent you yet ?

paul standley
09-01-2011, 10:04 PM
Hi Tony, no it's not arrived yet but the post is a mess locally at the moment, the PO are still catching up, they even did a post delivery this morning... Looking fwd to getting it. Cheers, Paul.

CanadianMike
09-01-2011, 11:02 PM
Mike, How do you set up to hold the bevel angle, do you do it by feel/sight or do you have a jig to hold 14 degrees ? - Paul

Ya, I made a jig to hold it. Used a tablesaw, set up for 7 and 8 degrees, slid a piece of thick melamine through it and screwed in 3/4" metal cups that hold rare earth magnets, and therefore the blade too. Works great, you just slide the jig side to side along the belt and then switch blade sides.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs958.snc4/75143_454458444206_510619206_5173336_4747730_n.jpg

KERNOW KELT
10-01-2011, 08:42 PM
What a clever, not to say patient, chap..... very impressed !!!!

paul standley
10-01-2011, 08:56 PM
Tony - got the template today, many thanks.

Boy, am i going to have a busy year....!

Paul

CanadianMike
15-01-2011, 02:26 PM
Heat treated and tempered twice so far, will finish the bevel (edge is about 1mm wide right now) and temper again for another hour.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs789.ash1/167961_496638084206_510619206_5793346_7280388_n.jp g

Always seem to get some neat blistering.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1376.snc4/164823_496638109206_510619206_5793347_8010290_n.jp g

Fletching
15-01-2011, 03:14 PM
Looking good there Mike! I like the jig idea.

Steve

CanadianMike
15-01-2011, 03:52 PM
Thanks Steve, it works great! Still working out the fine details in using it though,minute variations in how your place the blade show in the bevel. Also left and right show slight differences.

CanadianMike
16-01-2011, 12:26 AM
Handle is on and in the middle of much sanding........

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs781.ash1/167111_497088589206_510619206_5800199_6164733_n.jp g

Noticed after not only is the rear pin higher than the front, it's also turned out of phase with the front one as far as the brass and aluminum rods in the mosaic pins go. Oh well.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs888.ash1/179687_497092309206_510619206_5800306_2062092_n.jp g

jbrown14
16-01-2011, 01:21 AM
Wow, Mike. That is beautiful!
What kind of wood is that, Spalted Maple?

I'm going to copy your jig idea sometime soon. I've been trying to come up with some way of getting a consistent, flat grind without free-handing things on my belt sander, and I love the large flat control surface to hold onto.

Josh

CanadianMike
16-01-2011, 02:21 AM
Thanks Josh, it works well enough to be simple, yet takes skill to use it right. Still, it eliminates a lot of problems with doing things simply by hand. And yes, is spalted maple.

CanadianMike
16-01-2011, 08:43 PM
Wood hardener applied after final shaping, looking great so far (and feels really good to hold too).

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs882.ash1/179039_497517704206_510619206_5808387_7942095_n.jp g

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1360.snc4/163270_497517859206_510619206_5808392_2473199_n.jp g

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs886.ash1/179465_497517974206_510619206_5808395_3091074_n.jp g

JEEP
18-01-2011, 08:21 AM
Beautiful piece of work :happy-clapping:

That handle is a real beauty.

CanadianMike
18-01-2011, 12:31 PM
Thank ya sir! I think I'm finished the handle now, just put that one coat of wood hardener on it (the scales once cut out I let soak for a couple hours in the hardener, but not sure how much sunk in), sanded it down lightly to get rid of the gloss, then last night I buffed it up with carnauba wax on my flannel wheel, the yellowness has mostly gone and is back to a more natural cream colour and very smooth/hard feeling. Next I'll have to focus on sanding the blade and bevel up to 2000 grit, then sharpen it, and finally a sheath. Think I'll make a Woodlore style so I can make a shoulder strap for it.

RobbC
18-01-2011, 01:20 PM
Thats some beautiful work! Im wanting to try and make my own knives, but havent gotten round to it yet, a little bit daunted by the amount of work involved. hope fully when i do get staeted i can get to the point when i am making knives as amazing as these!

Robb

CanadianMike
18-01-2011, 01:57 PM
Lots of advice available to you around here for when you want it. ;)

New pic.....
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs054.snc6/168439_498421209206_510619206_5823512_6323680_n.jp g

Bambii
18-01-2011, 06:35 PM
WOW!!

I really like this knife, especially the handle.

It's so unique.

jbrown14
18-01-2011, 06:38 PM
After that buffing, the grain and spalting really pops. I actually like the mosaic pins out of phase like that too, it's something I would have done, just to throw people off a little. You're making me want to get back out to my shop and finish a couple of knives that have been sitting for a while...

Exceptional knife, Mike. Well done.

Mouldsy
18-01-2011, 08:44 PM
Very nice work mate, really impressed I like the look of the handle.
Hope it brings you many years of service Mike. Well done.

CanadianMike
18-01-2011, 11:08 PM
Thanks guys, am sure it'll be around for a long time...... will finish my wool shirt after sanding this blade down and making a sheath, finish my step-dad's marking knife with rosewood handle, then likely start another knife like this one. Lol, never ends with me, so much I want to do and I really love what I've found within myself the past 6 months since I got started into the lifelong trek of knife making. :)

CanadianMike
29-01-2011, 04:29 AM
Done, might sand the blade a bit more to even out the oxide left by the hot vinegar, and just added the Sinnet knot lanyard this evening, planned to make a Woodlore type sheath I can also sling, that is one of my upcoming projects (still screwing aroun with finishing my wool shirt, so many edges to sew and also stepping back once in a while and redoing a different way).......anyways:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs268.snc6/179618_10150090698789207_510619206_5896941_1369852 _n.jpg

Fletching
29-01-2011, 04:54 AM
Very, very nice Mike!

CanadianMike
29-01-2011, 05:01 AM
Thank you sir! Won't be too long before I make another or two. Have enough spalted maple to make at least three more handles like this, next knives would likely be 3/16" instead of the 1/8" I've been using since I got away from using files. Also have a new base made for me for bevel grinding, where my previous had 16 and 14 degree bevel angles (wood cut at 8 and 7 degrees per side), my new one has four sides, 6 8 10 and 12 degrees. Just gotta spend about $40 to magnetize all four sides, and see what I get. This knife has the 14 degree bevel on it.

JEEP
29-01-2011, 08:13 AM
Beautiful work :happy-clapping:

That handle is just smashing!

CanadianMike
29-01-2011, 03:44 PM
TY Jeep, I'm very impressive with how it turned out finally.

I'll be starting a new thread on the videos I used to learn that square sinnet knot and how to finish it right after this. Rather fun to do, your fingers tend to burn though after a while of pulling paracord.

Tony1948
29-01-2011, 04:41 PM
Mike the template you wanted is on it's way, also i put in a template of a woodlore type sheath hope it's OK. I use 4 mill thick steel for the blade but that's up to you...............All the best with your next knife................TONY.........Dont get eaten by the BEARS.

CanadianMike
29-01-2011, 08:12 PM
Lol, thanks Tony, am looking forward to trying it out. 4mm, that's close to 3/16" right? Was my planned next purchase for O1 steel, an just picked up my new (1993)Brit Army golok (patterned after the Martindale #2, still MoD issue though) and it has 4mm steel, very thick, I like. And including a woodlore sheath pattern, sweet, likely help me out a bunch.

No bears around here, only deer and coyotes. :)
Mike

mahikan
30-01-2011, 03:57 PM
Question for you Mike.

Did you use a commercial wood hardener or do you have your own secret recipe?

CanadianMike
30-01-2011, 04:37 PM
Minwax wood hardener, love the stuff!

mahikan
30-01-2011, 04:43 PM
Thanks Mike.
Have you a few projects on the go that could use a decent wood hardener.

CanadianMike
30-01-2011, 05:53 PM
Surprisingly, I've found many uses for the stuff, from the obvious soaking wood in it, to using it as an actual finish (sand, and buff after) to soaking it into paracord wrapped grips so they stay in place and also harden/become waterproof. Amazing stuff that is. Going to try the water based wood hardener at some point, because of the "Brown Movement" (environmental supposedly "Green movement") the acetone based stuff is only available at Rona, Home Depot carries thicker water based stuff which I suspect won't be as good. But found some watery stuff at the paint store the other night I might test.

mahikan
30-01-2011, 07:56 PM
I have a canoe paddle I just finished carving from a Trembling Aspen Tree, it has some soft spots on it so I plan to use the MinWax on that.
Your knife handle looked really good so I hope I will be able to get a finish of a similar quality on my paddle.

CanadianMike
31-01-2011, 01:29 AM
Thanks. Likely you should get a similar result as my knife handles. The spalted maple seems soft in places (as it should, it's half rotted with mold) but after a soak in wood hardener when I was using sandpaper to shape the grips, I found it went so freaking slow even though I was using #50 grit and a short piece of dowel, so obviously the stuff sinks in very deep. I actually just cleaned up my new British machete/golok's handle and gave it a coat after regrinding the bevel.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs765.ash1/165667_10150091003294207_510619206_5901156_3320673 _n.jpg

Am curious about the need for a hollow grind............
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs040.snc6/167024_10150091722924207_510619206_5911330_2410171 _n.jpg

So I got rid of it!
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs892.ash1/179996_10150091723299207_510619206_5911331_935043_ n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs067.snc6/167702_10150091723759207_510619206_5911333_1824526 _n.jpg

Fletching
31-01-2011, 03:02 AM
Methinks we need a group shot of CM's sharps so we can all drool in jealousy...

jbrown14
31-01-2011, 03:26 AM
Am curious about the need for a hollow grind............

I'd be willing to bet it's just ease of manufacturing and not any functional reason for the hollow grind.

CanadianMike
31-01-2011, 03:35 AM
Thing is, a hollow grind is more work than a straight bevel, and requires better equipment. With my current knife making set up, a straight Scandi type bevel is easy, but there is no way I can do anything close to a hollow grind. And reading up more on hollow grinds, they are NOT recommended to be used for chopping due to the fact they are thinner and will likely chip easy. I know this type of machete is meant for use on green wood, but still........

CanadianMike
06-03-2011, 01:01 AM
Been lazy and easily distracted the past couple months, but finally made a Woodlore type sheath for my knife today.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/196230_10150112842094207_510619206_6145691_2454989 _n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/199938_10150112842274207_510619206_6145693_1647700 _n.jpg

RobbC
06-03-2011, 10:39 AM
Amazing work Mike!

Robb

CanadianMike
06-03-2011, 02:19 PM
Thank ya sir! Starting on a sheath for my Martindale #2 copy golok now, since the camo sheath it came with, while of good quality, doesn't hold the knife at all. I know, it's a bayonet frog, but still, I need a sheath for this puppy. And since I'm on a role...

Martin
06-03-2011, 06:43 PM
Nice looking sheath Mike and sets off that lovely blade very well. :)

Martin

CanadianMike
06-03-2011, 07:33 PM
Thanks Martin, have to take better pics (dye is actually a bit darker reddish brown), and have to sand down the vinegar treatment some (sanded to 2000x before), but left the knife in the damp sheath over night and confirmed what I suspected, the O1 with white vinegar treatment didn't notice the dampness of the sheath, but the edge that I exposed to a rather sharp edge (rather sharp is what i avoid, I go full bore to the point the knife LOOKS for things to cut) ended up a little bit blackish and tarnished from the dampness.

Nutshell, soaking high carbon steel in hot white vinegar for 10mins will keep corrosion and rust away, but will leave a dark grey finish. Maybe sticky that part, even if I have to retype the info up.

fish
19-04-2011, 10:00 AM
wow a real craftsman! that is amazing,i must try the wood hardener,i just soak the wood in superglue!

CanadianMike
19-04-2011, 03:37 PM
Thanks. Ya, the wood hardener is easier I suppose, and really penetrates deep.

Notredame11211
07-06-2011, 02:50 AM
Thanks. Likely you should get a similar result as my knife handles. The spalted maple seems soft in places (as it should, it's half rotted with mold) but after a soak in wood hardener when I was using sandpaper to shape the grips, I found it went so freaking slow even though I was using #50 grit and a short piece of dowel, so obviously the stuff sinks in very deep. I actually just cleaned up my new British machete/golok's handle and gave it a coat after regrinding the bevel.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs765.ash1/165667_10150091003294207_510619206_5901156_3320673 _n.jpg

Am curious about the need for a hollow grind............
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs040.snc6/167024_10150091722924207_510619206_5911330_2410171 _n.jpg

So I got rid of it!
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs892.ash1/179996_10150091723299207_510619206_5911331_935043_ n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs067.snc6/167702_10150091723759207_510619206_5911333_1824526 _n.jpg

Hey Mike, Do you happen to recall where you purchased that machete? I've been looking for one, very hard to find over here in Canada.....

CanadianMike
07-06-2011, 02:13 PM
Hey James, I actually bought it from ebay, seller showed he was located in the US, paid with US funds, then the tracking number showed it was sent from a post office in the UK. Oh well, I got it in 5 days, so wasn't a big deal. Am thinking of making a copy of this with better steel (this is way too soft) and a better sheath at some point this year, so stand by.....

CanadianMike
07-06-2011, 02:17 PM
And, for the heck of it, almost done the sheath for the purpleheart knife, another coat of dye and more final shaping. As my other knives, this knife fits with a dull click into the sheath, it locks in really wall and takes a few pounds of pull pressure ot get it out. :)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/253685_120011734750031_117036668380871_171740_6575 792_n.jpg

Notredame11211
07-06-2011, 03:55 PM
Hey James, I actually bought it from ebay, seller showed he was located in the US, paid with US funds, then the tracking number showed it was sent from a post office in the UK. Oh well, I got it in 5 days, so wasn't a big deal. Am thinking of making a copy of this with better steel (this is way too soft) and a better sheath at some point this year, so stand by.....

Sounds cool, You should post up some pics when get finished with that!:D The purpleheart knife is coming along very nicely as well!

CanadianMike
07-06-2011, 06:53 PM
Thanks. Knife is pretty much done, just going to clea up the blade a bit more, maybe another buff with wax. Paduak handled one is almost done too. :)