Which sharpening stone?

[snowleopard]

I don't think there is another thread on this topic, if there is then tell me please!T^

Joel

[dave budd]

I've not voted yet, but my brain hasn't woken up yet (flipping dog kept me awake all night)

I mostly use ceramic waterstones in the workshop, they happen to be Japanese (Naniwa) but the country of origin isn't really important. Its more the choice between normal (relativey soft) waterstone and the ceramic (much harder) waterstones. I sell the softer variety because they are cheap, user friendly and come in handy combinations. I use the harder ceramic ones because they last longer and are available in a huge range of grits, but they start at £50 a piece and go up to over £200!

[FishyFolk]

how about cheap whet stone in Aluminium oxide...
Does the job...
http://www.clasohlson.com/uk/Bench-Whetstone/30-9989

[Silverback]

how about cheap whet stone in Aluminium oxide...
Does the job...
http://www.clasohlson.com/uk/Bench-Whetstone/30-9989


Much the same and have used one for years....kept my shop knives in fine fettle for breaking carcasses into primals and fine boning / slicing work

[snowleopard]

I've not voted yet, but my brain hasn't woken up yet (flipping dog kept me awake all night)

I mostly use ceramic waterstones in the workshop, they happen to be Japanese (Naniwa) but the country of origin isn't really important. Its more the choice between normal (relativey soft) waterstone and the ceramic (much harder) waterstones. I sell the softer variety because they are cheap, user friendly and come in handy combinations. I use the harder ceramic ones because they last longer and are available in a huge range of grits, but they start at £50 a piece and go up to over £200!

Wow! Pricey

Joel

[Silverback]

I also use spray mount to stick wet and dry paper to a bit of MDF

[Tommy]

I voted “cheap oil stone”.

At home I use the Lansky sharpening system. In the field I take a diamond file but I have only used it once.

IMO there isn't much of a need to sharpen knives in the field. I figure that my cheap Gerber (440A steel, sabre grind) can take about 30 days of continual use before needing to be sharpened. Now I am talking about using the knife for normal mundane camp chores during that 30 day period, no big carving projects or the dressing of game.

[Ehecatl]

Fallkniven DC4

M@

[snowleopard]

Thanks to everyone who has voted,

T^

Joel

[beermaker]

I voted cheap oil stone, although my oil stones were far from cheap!! I don't use the oxide stones, I have two carborundum stones for sharpening and a natural Arkansas stone for finishing off before stropping :)

[snowleopard]

I voted cheap oil stone, although my oil stones were far from cheap!! I don't use the oxide stones, I have two carborundum stones for sharpening and a natural Arkansas stone for finishing off before stropping :)

Thanks beer maker!

T^

Joel

[Tommy]

Active Members 378

Votes cast on this thread 17

I just don't know what to say. :confused2: or :rolleye: maybe :mad:

[JEEP]

Active Members 378

Votes cast on this thread 17

I just don't know what to say. :confused2: or :rolleye: maybe :mad:

Whoa there! Easy now...

[beermaker]

Have to say I'm surprised at the low response for such a quintessentially central topic - we all have knives and opinions on how to sharpen them! Sorely tempted to get some water stones for use in the field as it's not really practical to carry an oil can around with me!

[baitman]

i must admit to being something of a knife sharpening novice compared to most of you guys.
i have a diamond steel for sharpening my cookery knives and have used that to keep a keen edge on chef style knives.
having done some reading on here and elsewhere i have started using a cheap oil stone to hone a better cutting profile. i then finished this with the steel to remove most of the burrs and freshen the edge. i have even tried going one stage further with the wetted leather belt/toothpaste stropp and i have been impressed with how it polished out the micro burrs and smoothed the sharpened edge. paper slicing sharp is well sharp enough.

[alvino78]

dco4 and a gransfor axe stone replica!!

[Ferrell freddy]

My Fallkniven DC4 gets my Mora Companion paper slicing/hair shaving sharp I use it the same way this guy does...
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0i_kikGYJ8o

[OakAshandThorn]

Have to say I'm surprised at the low response for such a quintessentially central topic - we all have knives and opinions on how to sharpen them! Sorely tempted to get some water stones for use in the field as it's not really practical to carry an oil can around with me!
You may find that all you need is a pocket stone like the Spyderco Doublestuff or a DC4 - saves from carrying the extra bulk of a water stone or two ;).

[beermaker]

Cheers for the tip OakAshandThorn - will look them up :) Also going to make a small pocket strop with some leather bonded to plywood for stropping in the field.

Tell you a good measure of an edge mind - chopping pampas grass! Helped my neighbour chop some down last week with my machete and it nearly killed me!

[OakAshandThorn]

Cheers for the tip OakAshandThorn - will look them up :) Also going to make a small pocket strop with some leather bonded to plywood for stropping in the field.

Tell you a good measure of an edge mind - chopping pampas grass! Helped my neighbour chop some down last week with my machete and it nearly killed me!
Pampas makes decent garden foliage, but it can easily grow out of control and block sunlight for other plants. Definitely a good test for a machete :evilgrin:.

[snowleopard]

Thanks everyone


Joel

[SilverBinder]

I have a couple of the very fine grit Japanese water stones for use in the shop. But i carry a file, a Landsky diamond rod, and a hock puck synthetic stone in the field. Later is used only on my axe (ancient but still works) and my parang.


"This is Liberty Hall = you can spit on the mat and call the 'cat' a b*st*rd!"

[MadZ]

as i carve wood green and seasoned, i have and use many types of stone, i will say that its all personal preference on what type and material of stone you use and also what feels comfortable, i have many stones that i collected from antique shops and car boots and have over 12 different stones all together costing me less than the price of a new water stone, some needed lapping flat but hey i know there flat and square, i prefer the natural material stones for the final stages of sharpening before going to the strop, and man made material oil stones for roughing things out and reshaping, but have a few friends one only using ceramic for his sharpening and another who uses diamond stones, after using a variety of stones i found the selection i use now work the best for me, so i if you are going to go purchase a stone or two try and see what you can pick up from the antique shops and car boots, and see if you know any body that has a selection of stones you could try before hand, you might find that you try a Japanese water stone and an oil stone and get on with one a lot better than the other

[MikeWilkinson]

Cheap oil stone at home. If I need to sharpen in the field I just use my axe puck and strop on razorstrop fungus or leather belt. Probably sounds a bit sacrilegious to all you blade fanatics but works for me.

[Sylvanbilly]

I got a three piece kit from axminister, pritty good if you use it a lot, cost £50 a couple of years ago
Cheers
Bill

[Alexdermietzel97]

I use a combination 1000/6000 grit Japanese water-stone for my main sharpening. That said, I have just received a Arkansas pocket whetstone which is great to keep in you ruck-sac, only £5 from bush-craft store too:)

[Ashley Cawley]

Japanese water-stones for me, but man they've gone up in price over the past few years haven't they? I've seen sets going for silly money.