Axe work tutorials

[Magicdave]

I'm researching tools and deciding what I'd like to be using. I initially thought I'd like to move onto an axe as I wanted to work with bigger carvings.

On a hunch I decided to look further into them, the thinking being that I've never worked with an axe and for carving it would probably be best to learn to use one as early as possible.

I found this video. From my experience with wood, and other tools, I think it is an excellent video.

I know that nothing comes close to being hands on, for this reason I think his TV shopping channel style presentation works really well for a video tutorial.

His respect for the wood and the tools come across really well.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjK2yKZEPZQ

I enjoyed the video and found it very useful, I hope someone else does too, and I'm asking if anyone has any other links they would recommend me to watch?

[OakAshandThorn]

Can't really recommend any vids besides USFS documentaries, but those are mainly axe restoration "how-to's", tools for trail maintenance, etc. Me personally, my axe (Gränsfors Bruks Small Forest Axe) gets more use keeping trails cleared, and it's size and weight make it ideal for light to medium work while not adding too much extra weight to my pack. I have little use with it in Bushcraft per-se because I don't use open fires a lot, and it doesn't take a lot of wood to get my small wood stove going. It has come in very handy for carving, but a hatchet gives you much better control and is less tiring to use. But for bigger projects, like making a bow, having that extra length of the helve and a heaver head makes the job easier.

I've never been one to understand the philosophy that one needs a large axe for winter camping - a lot depends on the environment of your camping location, your kit as a whole, and what (if anything) you want to build. It does you little good to lug around a 1.6 kg/3.5 lb felling axe in winter in an environment like South Carolina. It's just not necessary, and that's a lo of extra weight to be carrying around, unless you plan on building a log cabin :p. I also don't believe in long fires, which require a lot of effort to collect the wood, and my set-up isn't fire dependent for warmth and my comfort. Of course, I don't live in an arctic climate (it rarely gets below -22 C here), and I use a sleeping bag plus some extra clothes to keep warm... I don't sleep in open Adirondack shelters with a wool blanket.

I would probably start out with a hatchet, see how you get on with it, and "upgrade" to something larger if you so choose and find it necessary. Hatchets are also easier to learn with and are more forgiving than a larger axe.
Hope this helps :)

[Magicdave]

Thanks for the info. It is hatchets I'm currently looking at. For me its pretty much going to be a carving tool, with obvious bonuses. No plans on building a log cabin, or even in chopping down trees.

Any links to USFS docs? Even if it is building cabins chopping trees, that stuff does interest me, and I'm a doc lover, I'll watch anything of interest. These sound like they could be interesting if available.

[Magicdave]

Wow, even more thanks. A quick google and I'm not even 10 mins into USFS "An axe to Grind". Fantastic already.

[rossbird]

Robin Woods vids are a great way to learn, in my opinion.


http://youtu.be/Lx-NTPBoLmU

[rossbird]

If you search for Barn the Spoon, on youtube, he is probably one of the finest spooncarvers in Britain.

[Magicdave]

Thanks, I'm watching "An axe to Grind" at the moment, it's almost finished, I'll follow your link after. I've watched Barn's video's, they're excellent and inspiring.

I actually noticed a little tip after re-watching them today. He briefly mentions using a sweedish fire-steel as a cabinet scraper, class.

He makes me think of something I once heard in an art documentary. It talked of artists, throughout the ages, starting off building up paint layer over layer and eventually getting their picture. I've done some oil painting and I get that, constantly mixing and fixing (attempting to fix) the picture. Then later in their life (somewhere I never got) getting that picture in the minimum number of strokes, something to be strived for.

Picasso and Lowry are 2 artists that come to my mind when I think of this, and I see it in Barn's work. But more, he's not just an artist, an engineer too. Asthetical function, a true natural designer of the highest standard.

[Magicdave]

I enjoyed this and thought I’d add the video, it is about maintenance and technique, with history to plus. Well worth the watching and fits the thread on both counts. The old school heavy duty work, that is shown the odd time throughout, is both mental and inspiring.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xz3rs-eaN3E

I personally learned about the oil, and beeswax, tip. It probably ruled out something I’ve been thinking about the last few days, but I’ll ask if anyones tried anyway.

I was considering the possibilities of using “Renaissance Micro-crystalline Wax” for high carbon blade protection (not just axes). My main concern has been that it would probably be quite an expensive way to go. Any thoughts?

It also made me smile to hear him saying, never to use a bench grinder to sharpen an axe. I was taught that a bench grinder is for making/modifying tools, pre heat treating, not for sharpening. Loving that.

[OakAshandThorn]

Not a video, but something to add to the list - this came in handy when I restored the family axe :).
http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/programs/fire/documents/5100_9D.pdf.

[Magicdave]

Not a video, but something to add to the list - this came in handy when I restored the family axe .
http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/programs/fi...s/5100_9D.pdf.

I've been trying to access this since you posted, I keep getting an offline message saying that they'll get things back online after fixing dome server problem. I'll keep an eye on it, thanks for posting.

[OakAshandThorn]

I've been trying to access this since you posted, I keep getting an offline message saying that they'll get things back online after fixing dome server problem. I'll keep an eye on it, thanks for posting.
I've noticed the same thing with the National Park Service website...odd :confused2:
OK, this link should work - http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/programs/fire/documents/5100_9D.pdf

[bikebum1975]

How big are the carvings you are planning to do? That will be a big thing to determine the handle length and weight on the head. It may sound like a lot but I started carving with a 2 and a 1/2 pound hewing hatchet. The weight helps a lot for fast waste removal. I have since moved to a Roselli axe and a Wetterlings hatchet. I do prefer a Scandinavian axe pattern to an American style for carving splitting I'll take a different style. If you happen to want an all around axe something like a boys axe might be perfect they are generally 2 and a 1/2 pounds. Then the big thing how deep are your pockets? A dedicated carving axe just might be your thing

[Magicdave]

I'm a Scotsman, my pockets are that deep I can't even reach any money that might still be deep down in the bottom of them.

To start off I'll work small, items that can be carried easily, but who knows where I'll go from there. I'm definitely not considering anything at 2 1/2 lbs. I'll start small and later decide If a second larger axe might also be required. In research I was also thinking a dedicated carving hatched would be best and was liking the look of the Gransfors small hatchet at .7 lbs. Then I started to think about something cheaper and discovered the Robin Woods axe which is an excellent price, but I can't find them available anywhere.

Looking further, for a dedicated carving hatchet, the Gransfors hatchet isn't that expensive.

[OakAshandThorn]

Gosh, how could I forget these?
Anyway, here's some Mors Kochanski advice for 'ya :).
Part 1 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aijEY9njOw
Part 2 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5jb8wg83fk

[Magicdave]

They are good video's. I watched, and enjoyed, them last week. Personally I'm more of interest in carving use. But still great to have the links here, thanks.

[OakAshandThorn]

They are good video's. I watched, and enjoyed, them last week. Personally I'm more of interest in carving use. But still great to have the links here, thanks.
Then if you already haven't, do check out Ben Orford's vids on YT :).

[Magicdave]

Excellent, thanks. I just searched for him and recognised the first video that came up as having stumbled across it before. It's one I'd like to watch again, and I'll watch the rest too.

[Magicdave]

I’ve been out on the hills for the last few days, meanwhile trying to contemplate what I’m looking for in an axe.

And I got it, “I think”. It’s obvious, probably. I have no idea!!! I’ve never used an axe in my life, how could I know what I need? Hammers, knives, chisels, shavers, etc… Been there, but not an axe.

My decision was, half heartedly, to do what I’m doing without an axe while considering what I’d like it to do.

Then today, back in reality, I discovered “Dave Canterbury”, who many of you must know. On watching this video...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7ylTAH9aLE

...in particular, I found my previous thoughts were “probably” right.

[Magicdave]

Actually, I got it. I need a Swiss Army multi axe.

[Magicdave]

Just doing a bit of thinking. I've been using a meat cleaver (single pice stainless steel, 3mm blade width) to split wood, I got the idea after watching a Japanese carver use a sushi knife for carving, I find the control excellent. I can split the most twisted of branches directly down the centre. But it gets a bit tough around 4" diameter.

From watching axe splitting videos online I have the feeling it would offer less control. I'm in no rush to go over 4" inch diameter, but for when the time time comes is my thinking right that I'd retain that better control using a good golok? I'm thinking it would sit somewhere in-between the axe and the cleaver.